Delos and Mykonos
One of the big advantages of expedition travel is the ability to look at regional weather situations and plan around winds and seas. This week we had been in the southern Cyclades, avoiding winds in the northern islands and waiting for a window of opportunity to visit the sacred island of Delos, a sure highlight of the voyage.
We arrived on a Monday when the site is normally closed, but arranged for a special morning opening that left us almost alone in this most powerful of classical Greek sanctuaries. The breeze tempered the morning heat and wildflowers carpeted the marble blocks and columns. Laura and Gemma brought the site to life as we walked first down the Sacred Way through the sanctuaries and then across the famous Terrace of the Lions.
After a short break for fresh-squeezed orange juice, we continued on to the residential areas of Delos and the dominating theater. Some of the mountain goats in our group climbed to the top of the island and saw why Delos was considered the center of the Cyclades! What a privilege it was to have this island to ourselves, and it was certainly an experience we will never forget.
We took a short plunge in the chilly waters of Delos Strait, and then repositioned the ship a few miles to neighboring Mykonos. What a contrast from the solitude and reflection of Delos! Mykonos was one of the only Cycladic villages built on the coast instead of up in the hills, and it was thus that the beautiful cubic whitewashed houses and narrow streets were discovered by travelers in the 1960s.
Of course Mykonos is now a hotspot for jetsetters and cruise ships, and one has to dig through the layers of development to see the true beauty that made Mykonos famous. We did just that in the quiet of the afternoon before the cruise ships arrived, and Gemma and Laura did a wonderful job of highlighting the glory and significance of this iconic Cycladic Island.
As the cruise ships pulled in for the evening and the crowds smothered the old town, most of us stayed on board for a special barbecue grill dinner prepared by our Hotel Manager Yiannis and his galley team. It was a feast to be remembered, and we all felt that we were at the best restaurant in Mykonos: the Panorama!
