Isabela and Fernandina Islands

It is always exciting to visit the western side of the archipelago. The remoteness, the beauty of the volcanic settings and the rewarding sightings of unusual animal species make an exquisite combination. We have had so many spectacular wildlife sightings in the western realm that we are always hoping to see something extraordinary.

Today has not been the exception. This has been a “Whale of a Day!” Early in the morning a couple of rare and seldom seen Cuvier’s beaked whales (Ziphius cavirostris) were spotted. The physical appearance of these peculiar whales does not fit the common mental picture of a whale. The body coloration is reddish brown or fawn and becomes paler towards the head. The maximum size is 21 feet. The back and the sides of these animals are often heavily scarred. These cetaceans have a uniquely shaped face that ends forward, in two long beak-shaped mandibles. At the front of the lower mandible there are two teeth!

Based on sparse data available in the Galápagos literature, and according to our few past encounters with beaked whales, we know that they prefer to roam in deep waters. They are difficult to spot because they do not have a distinguished blow pattern and because they are not very active at the surface. Most of the ecological, behavioral and scientific data about these peculiar whales comes from isolated strandings. The diet of the Cuvier’s whale is apparently primarily deep dwelling fish (mesopelagic) species and squid. Cuvier’s beaked whales are probably more common than they appear to be from the limited observations. However, their secretive life style gives them an intriguing halo of mystery.

Our early morning sighting of Cuvier’s whales was extraordinary but the best was yet to come. During our Zodiac cruise at Punta Vicente, a Bryde’ whale (Balaenoptera edeni) was seen very close to the boats. Then, just at lunchtime, a call from the bridge threw us all, guests, naturalists and crew, into a rage of excitement. A very large male sperm whale (Physeter macrocepahlus) performed gloriously off the bow of the Polaris. This species of whale is only rarely seen in these waters. The sperm whale is the largest of the toothed whales. It can easily reach 55 feet in length. We watched it logging on the surface, blowing and breathing. Then, at the moment that it dove, the whale lifted its enormous fluke high out of the water. We were sure this was the icing on the cake! We yelled and laughed with joy and excitement and celebrated one of life’s truly great moments.

Incredibly our luck continued and for some of us the grand finale actually came later. At Punta Espinoza, Fernandina Island, we rode in pangas and snorkeled with bottlenose dolphins! It is hard to believe that one day could be packed with so many awesome experiences. Truly a “Whale of a Day!”