Santa Cruz Island

Dawn arrived with sunlight striking through patchwork clouds low on the horizon. Overhead were large clear spaces, something different from what we’ve seen the last few days. Perfect conditions for spending most of our day on shore.

We started with a round of visits to the various giant tortoise corrals that are part of the captive-raising program of the Charles Darwin Research Station and the Galápagos National Park. What was truly extraordinary was the special offer by Felipe Cruz, Director of the Isabela Project (combined project of Darwin Station and National Park), to briefly visit the actual incubators where the tortoise eggs are kept under strict temperature and humidity control for hatching. We were honored to be able to see and photograph some recent hatchlings, some just partially out of their shells, along with others still in the “black box” where they remain for several weeks more before being allowed out into the full light of day. This is to simulate their natal chamber in the earth, where they remain for a similar length of time after hatching.

We walked very, very carefully around the shallow pens holding the youngsters of only a few months of age, and watched below with fascination the slightly older ones rumble over and between the boulders of lava lying in their path, the 4-inch-high obstacles tremendous challenges for the moment. Fausto Llerena, who has dedicated his life to the success of this program, watched us with eagle eyes as we made our way around the premises.

We also had another extraordinary opportunity when we visited another normally restricted area hidden behind the offices of the Galápagos National Park Service. After a good hike inland, we were introduced to the dogs that are specially raised and trained to help the Park Service personnel in the field. We saw newborn puppies, saw the booties they wear for traveling over rough lava, met their veterinarian, and heard all about their lives. Their function here is intensely vital to the work of both organizations, such as the Isabela Project, aimed at restoring these incomparable islands and unique wildlife to their original state.

A New Years dinner was followed by live music from a group of talented local musicians, and boy, did we dance! A toast with champagne on the teak deck at midnight was followed by the traditional burning of an effigy of the old year off the stern. What a day!