Fernandina Island

Fernandina Island is one of the most pristine islands in the whole world. Punta Espinoza, our disembarkation place today in the morning, is the only place where visitors are allowed to land on this untouched island. Punta Espinoza is without any doubt one of the most stupendously beautiful places I have had the privilege to enjoy and interpret to visitors. Just to give you an idea about how protected this island is, if scientists manage to obtain permits to climb up to its caldera, they can go just in small groups, six at the most. Before starting the walk, every piece of equipment, including backpacks, is left in a freezer for three days to eliminate the chances that alien species be introduced to the island. Fernandina is considered to be the jewel in the crown of the Galapagos Archipelago.

Obviously it is not an easy task to explain in brief words everything that Fernandina can evoke in our spirits. Anyway please let me briefly summarise our visit to this island today, to give you an idea why I like it so much. Before going on land, our Zodiacs manoeuvred around shallows, rocks and surf, threading through narrow channels and picturesque scenarios. Around us life, expressed in many ways, is just overwhelming. Blue-footed boobies plunge diving just some feet away. Rare and emblematic flightless cormorants performing artistic and acrobatic courtship displays. Galapagos penguins swimming near the Zodiac. Splashing on the surface were sea lions, a few actually jumping completely out of the water around us. Green Pacific marine turtles glided like wraiths beneath us, occasionally popping their heads above the surface.

An outcropping of lava was the place we were able to step ashore. Once on land you feel that you are entering inside a different world. A world that is not only beautiful but magical. Red mangroves grow tall and thick surrounded by short bush-like white mangroves. These plants have formed a rich ecosystem between the shoreline and the blackened lava bed. We cannot avoid being thrilled on the hike to see that the ground was abuzz with life. A juvenile hawk welcomed us today, the bird was hovering over our heads with a majestic quality difficult to explain with simple words. Marine iguanas by the hundreds, some having started their breeding season. Many big males were spotted bobbing their heads. This funny movement is a territorial display. Sally light foot crabs are like red jewels against the young black lava flows. Spectacular groups of lava cactus, a plant species, not only beautiful but unique. Blue, black, green, white, red, are colours that are merged in a way just the most talented painter can imagine. Everything I have just described and much more was seen just one morning. Reluctantly we came back on board with the sensation that we have been privileged to be in an incredible, one of a kind place.