Genovesa Island

An enormous undersea volcano eventually breached the surface of the Pacific Ocean to form an island to the north of a group of similar volcanoes that make up the Galápagos Archipelago. The enormous caldera of the volcano eventually opened to the ocean, filling with water and giving rise to a giant bay which ships would eventually sail into and named after the most famous visitor to the Galápagos: Charles Darwin. The first name given to the beautiful, low-lying island was Tower, after a British admiral. Later on, the island group became Ecuadorian and all islands were renamed after the man who discovered the Americas: Columbus – this particular one was named after his birthplace, Genovesa.

Over 700 miles from the nearest mainland and separated from the central archipelago by deep waters, the island is a haven for winged travellers. Ocean going birds such as red-footed boobies and great frigate birds have found the perfect predator-less home amongst its scrubby vegetation, bathed by tropical waters and within easy reach of their open ocean feeding grounds. It seems even the waved albatross, considered endemic to the south-eastern island of Española, is discovering the attractions of Genovesa. Although it was not uncommon over the years to find the early arriving albatrosses stop for a rest and even some early courtship, this is the first time we have ever seen one with an egg!

The most spectacular of the seabirds that breed here, year after year, are the great frigate birds. These magnificent birds have truly mastered the art of flight like no other winged creature. Their seven-foot wing span and long forked tails, combined with a total body weight of just two and a half pounds, allow them to out-manoeuvre all the other birds and thus harass them until they can steal the precious stores from their crops. Despite this, to us, reprehensible kleptoparasitic behaviour, we cannot help but admire these birds in flight and observe with awe the extent of their aerial acrobatics. However, these feelings pale in comparison with those inspired by seeing these birds in full courtship display!

Males choose a suitable nesting site, of which Genovesa abounds, and start inflating startlingly red gular sacs that stand out magnificently against their black plumage and the greenery they perch on. Soon one male is joined by others, as the more brightly festooned with these red balloons the bushes becomes, the more white-chested females are attracted to the area. You should hear the commotion going on below when a female flies overhead, as these males vie for her attentions by shaking their sacs from side to side while fluttering their outstretched wings and calling! It is really unforgettable!

Eventually the females will snuggle down with just one male, and the cycle of life on Genovesa continues…