Isabela & Fernandina Islands

We awoke to a foggy Pacific. Sailing through mysteriously shrouded waters, the Encantadas. Redondo cliffs momentarily visible, then gone again; a relaxing quietude blanketing the Galápagos.

By the time we crossed the equator astride Vulcan Ecuador, only fog patches persisted. Pirates had boarded and hazed our polywags into shellbacks with iguana blood and waterhose.

The caldera opened wide, it’s sculpted black cliffs offering geo-text narratives in deep time. Our expedition leader’s storying voice resurrecting spectacular geologic processes.

Sea surface temperatures were in the upper 60’s, and the nutrient rich waters were surprisingly clear. Pangas brought us to a sheltered deep water exit. Each and every square inch of substrate is covered with life! Pink coralline algae, chartreuse coral cups, magenta gorgonians, green anemone, lacey hydroids, and orange encrusting sponge. Pacific green sea turtles graciously accompanied our explorations, kindly taking us to their sleeping grounds where pillow parties of 5-7 individuals seem commonplace. We all photo and film them. Getting those close ups means surface diving below the thermocline, brrrr…….

Many hot chocolates, followed by lunch, siesta; and then a Fernandina walk. Spitting marine iguanas are up on the ropey lava. Nesting flightless cormorants are doing the love dance, the highlight for some. But, the tide was exceptionally low, exposing a few interesting tide pools with basket stars!! I think my highlight. Hmmm…but maybe the eye of the cormorant…