Williams Cove, Tracy Arm, Southeast Alaska
On our first adventure this morning we traveled up Endicott Arm on mainland Southeast Alaska. Slowly we approached Dawes Glacier, a large tidewater glacier with its wide front of blue-white ice. The very low clouds precluded our view of the higher reaches of the fjord, but the incredible views of the sides of the fjord were marked at places with extensive “crescentic chattermarks” or flutes. These were created by other rocks embedded in the glacier as it advanced (upper photograph). A slight drizzle and the cold didn’t deter any of us from standing at the bow of the ship in all our warm clothes.
The many different pieces of ice, some with harbor seals, mothers and huge pups, floated serenely by as we waited for calving from the front of the glacier. Small pieces, and at last a larger one, fell off the front with a huge splash and roar, which the natives called “sumdum,” or “white thunder.” After a good while, we turned and retraced our steps out of the fjord and passed what is called “Ford’s Terror”, a narrow constriction of land through which the huge tide runs twice a day. During breakfast, we picked up the two forest rangers who later gave us a nice explanation of their work, and how they manage to do it from two kayaks, paddling amidst the ice. We then proceeded to cross Tracy Arm at its mouth, and entered Williams Cove where we arrived early in the afternoon, rapidly unloaded our kayaks and organized a series of hikes and kayak outings in the cove. The hikes were walks into the forest, some to an interesting bog or muskeg with acid water and its own flora, and others to bear paths along the ocean side. Some of us even had the opportunity of eating a series of wild berries, such as watermelon berries and salmonberries.
One of the highlights of the afternoon was the view of four different black bears so ensconced in their feeding on barnacles at the water’s edge that they didn’t mind our presence, even if only from a distance. Many of us kayaked also in the bay, another adventure to remember for a long time!
