Los Islotes
Our adventure, exploring the enchanted realm of the Sea of Cortez, the relatively narrow stretch of water that separates the Baja California peninsula from mainland Mexico, continues. We have already encountered many wondrous things during our hikes in desert arroyos covered with flowering cacti and other unexpected blooms. Our sailings have offered us spectacular views of marine creatures such as the incomparable humpback whale and breaching manta rays.
This morning we awoke by some small islets off the north coast of Isla Espiritu Santo, about twenty miles from the pretty town of La Paz. This place is renowned for its spectacular snorkeling, and later on in the day attracts many visitors to immerse in these waters, but being here nice and early we had this place practically to ourselves. The Sea of Cortez is incredibly nutrient rich and hence is home to a huge number of fish species, many of them tropical, others adapted to more temperate conditions. Our sightings today included innumerable king angel fish, surgeonfish, butterflyfish, damselfish and unbelievably coloured parrotfish – all flitting amongst or grazing on large Pocillopora coral heads and delicate gorgonian fan corals. The beautiful weather and bright sunshine that have been our constant companions this trip, enabled the beautiful colours and details of both the fish and invertebrates to stand out in all their glory.
The islets (a literal translation of the name in Spanish) are also home to a large colony of the California sea lion, Zalophus californianus, which was particularly interesting for me to encounter as, not long ago in biological terms, a few of these creatures reached the remote archipelago that is now my home, Galapagos, and evolved into a separate species of sea lion, Zalophus wollebaeki. It was fascinating to visit the ancestors of my much-beloved Galapagos sea lion, and notice some of the differences setting these two populations apart, mainly the larger size of the California relatives and the blond coloration of the sagittal crests of the males. We had the chance to swim with these graceful creatures, and I was delighted to find the immature sealions as curious and playful as their Ecuadorian cousins, if not more so! Large groups of youngish pups delighted in displaying underwater acrobatics, in swimming towards us poor unwitting snorkelers only to swerve away at the last moment, and in tugging at our fins with their mouths – a truly unforgettable experience.
On leaving Los Islotes behind, we headed to a place known by the delightful and very appropriate name of “Bahia Bonanza”. A spectacular long white beach standing out in the desert setting, with calm turquoise water lapping at the shores. An area in which to snorkel once more, explore by kayak or on foot, led by the expertise of our naturalists. This area was in fact so beautiful that we could not bring ourselves to leave, and had a sunset barbecue dinner on shore, followed by an evening spent gathered around a bonfire under the stars – a day as close to perfection as could possibly be.
Our adventure, exploring the enchanted realm of the Sea of Cortez, the relatively narrow stretch of water that separates the Baja California peninsula from mainland Mexico, continues. We have already encountered many wondrous things during our hikes in desert arroyos covered with flowering cacti and other unexpected blooms. Our sailings have offered us spectacular views of marine creatures such as the incomparable humpback whale and breaching manta rays.
This morning we awoke by some small islets off the north coast of Isla Espiritu Santo, about twenty miles from the pretty town of La Paz. This place is renowned for its spectacular snorkeling, and later on in the day attracts many visitors to immerse in these waters, but being here nice and early we had this place practically to ourselves. The Sea of Cortez is incredibly nutrient rich and hence is home to a huge number of fish species, many of them tropical, others adapted to more temperate conditions. Our sightings today included innumerable king angel fish, surgeonfish, butterflyfish, damselfish and unbelievably coloured parrotfish – all flitting amongst or grazing on large Pocillopora coral heads and delicate gorgonian fan corals. The beautiful weather and bright sunshine that have been our constant companions this trip, enabled the beautiful colours and details of both the fish and invertebrates to stand out in all their glory.
The islets (a literal translation of the name in Spanish) are also home to a large colony of the California sea lion, Zalophus californianus, which was particularly interesting for me to encounter as, not long ago in biological terms, a few of these creatures reached the remote archipelago that is now my home, Galapagos, and evolved into a separate species of sea lion, Zalophus wollebaeki. It was fascinating to visit the ancestors of my much-beloved Galapagos sea lion, and notice some of the differences setting these two populations apart, mainly the larger size of the California relatives and the blond coloration of the sagittal crests of the males. We had the chance to swim with these graceful creatures, and I was delighted to find the immature sealions as curious and playful as their Ecuadorian cousins, if not more so! Large groups of youngish pups delighted in displaying underwater acrobatics, in swimming towards us poor unwitting snorkelers only to swerve away at the last moment, and in tugging at our fins with their mouths – a truly unforgettable experience.
On leaving Los Islotes behind, we headed to a place known by the delightful and very appropriate name of “Bahia Bonanza”. A spectacular long white beach standing out in the desert setting, with calm turquoise water lapping at the shores. An area in which to snorkel once more, explore by kayak or on foot, led by the expertise of our naturalists. This area was in fact so beautiful that we could not bring ourselves to leave, and had a sunset barbecue dinner on shore, followed by an evening spent gathered around a bonfire under the stars – a day as close to perfection as could possibly be.
