From the Sea of Cortez
The wind was fresh out of the west this morning when our expedition leader, Bette Lu Krause, gave us our extra-early wakeup call at 6:15am. It was still dark and high up in the clear, eastern sky, Venus and Mars were ‘kissing’ or ‘in conjunction’ as the astronomers would say. It was a balmy 69 degrees F and 25-knot winds poured off the Baja peninsula. They are locally known as ‘elefantes.’ Dark clouds loomed over the backbone of the distant mountain peaks, as the Pacific Ocean winds condensed their moisture. Their shapes-like giant elephants, gave rise to their descriptive name. Similar brisk, warm winds aided the English pirates of long ago. Those were nicknamed ‘coromuel’ after Cromwell and his privateers. They cleverly used those breezes to escape from the Spaniards after plundering La Paz.
The pirates are gone but the exhilarating winds remain. Our pre-breakfast Zodiac rides are to the mangroves of Bahia Amortajada on Isla San Jose. A flock of pelicans plunge repeatedly into the waters before us, filling their pouches with breakfast. We spot two unusual creatures standing on the sandbar at the mouth of the mangrove lagoon. Large-brained primates! Poised with mimosas, (champagne and orange juice) Ryan and Renee, the ship’s bartender and hotel manager, entice us over for refreshments and warm blueberry muffins. Cromwell’s boys would have loved this service!
Nourishment in hand we quietly purr our trusty Zodiacs through the labyrinth of channels before us. Snowy and Reddish Egrets, a Green heron and White-faced Ibis dot the emerald green mangroves. Whimbrels and Willets rise in the dawn sky. The mountains of the Baja Peninsula turn rosy and to the east, framed by the rising sun, the Palo Adan, a relative of the northern desert ocotillo, crown like a tiara, a nearby hill, each bush backlit in a tangerine sky. Not all the pearls in China...
Later at noon we drop anchor at Los Islotes – ‘the islets’ – near Isla Partida. After a scrumptious fajita lunch in the dinning room it’s time to go snorkeling! Not any old snorkel amid rainbow coloured fish, but a Galapagos-like chance swim with sea lions! The water is clear, to call it blue would be unfair, to call it sapphire, enchanting. We’re in! The air is crisscrossed with Frigate birds and Blue-footed Boobies and the water riddled with young California sea lions. Like puppies, they want to play, and they spiral and twirl and like living torpedoes crisscrossing amid us. Giant smiles linger as we climb up the ladder on the Zodiac. Our warm towels wipe the salty droplets but not our memories – they are ours to keep!
The wind was fresh out of the west this morning when our expedition leader, Bette Lu Krause, gave us our extra-early wakeup call at 6:15am. It was still dark and high up in the clear, eastern sky, Venus and Mars were ‘kissing’ or ‘in conjunction’ as the astronomers would say. It was a balmy 69 degrees F and 25-knot winds poured off the Baja peninsula. They are locally known as ‘elefantes.’ Dark clouds loomed over the backbone of the distant mountain peaks, as the Pacific Ocean winds condensed their moisture. Their shapes-like giant elephants, gave rise to their descriptive name. Similar brisk, warm winds aided the English pirates of long ago. Those were nicknamed ‘coromuel’ after Cromwell and his privateers. They cleverly used those breezes to escape from the Spaniards after plundering La Paz.
The pirates are gone but the exhilarating winds remain. Our pre-breakfast Zodiac rides are to the mangroves of Bahia Amortajada on Isla San Jose. A flock of pelicans plunge repeatedly into the waters before us, filling their pouches with breakfast. We spot two unusual creatures standing on the sandbar at the mouth of the mangrove lagoon. Large-brained primates! Poised with mimosas, (champagne and orange juice) Ryan and Renee, the ship’s bartender and hotel manager, entice us over for refreshments and warm blueberry muffins. Cromwell’s boys would have loved this service!
Nourishment in hand we quietly purr our trusty Zodiacs through the labyrinth of channels before us. Snowy and Reddish Egrets, a Green heron and White-faced Ibis dot the emerald green mangroves. Whimbrels and Willets rise in the dawn sky. The mountains of the Baja Peninsula turn rosy and to the east, framed by the rising sun, the Palo Adan, a relative of the northern desert ocotillo, crown like a tiara, a nearby hill, each bush backlit in a tangerine sky. Not all the pearls in China...
Later at noon we drop anchor at Los Islotes – ‘the islets’ – near Isla Partida. After a scrumptious fajita lunch in the dinning room it’s time to go snorkeling! Not any old snorkel amid rainbow coloured fish, but a Galapagos-like chance swim with sea lions! The water is clear, to call it blue would be unfair, to call it sapphire, enchanting. We’re in! The air is crisscrossed with Frigate birds and Blue-footed Boobies and the water riddled with young California sea lions. Like puppies, they want to play, and they spiral and twirl and like living torpedoes crisscrossing amid us. Giant smiles linger as we climb up the ladder on the Zodiac. Our warm towels wipe the salty droplets but not our memories – they are ours to keep!
