In the Sea of Cortez
Awaking today, we were on approach to the Gorda Banks, a submerged set of rocks (seamount) that causes upwelling in this region of the Sea of Cortez. The rich nutrients rising into the sunlit layers of the ocean cause an abundance of plankton which in turn result in a high probability to view our quarry for the day — humpback whales. Soon after breakfast we sighted three: a pair traveling together and a single. We had good views of flukes in the distance, raised to signal the terminal dive. Then, while we discussed the fact that humpbacks were rorqual whales, the many-pleated throat allowing for great expansion while feeding, there was suddenly a breach close to the ship. We waited with baited breath to see if any more breaches would follow (lore has it that breaches most often happen in sets of three) but no more leaps occurred. The whales did show us their slightly curved dorsal fins a few more times before the pair showed its flukes and dove and the single went down. To tease out more whales we did what almost invariably brings them to the surface close to the ship: we started a botany lecture. However we watched the entire suite of stunning slides and heard about the local adaptations to xeric (dry) conditions without a marine mammal sighting interruption.
We practiced identifying our marine creatures using undersea footage from our previous two snorkeling outings and then we were ready to view more at Santa Maria, just outside of Cabo San Lucas. The snorkelers spun slowly watching schools of California needlefish moving just below the water’s surface and yellowfin surgeonfish, both the yellow and dark brown morphs, moving lower in the water column. While mesmerized by a large school of small goatfish using their barbels to probe the sand for invertebrate snacks, my attention was suddenly jerked to a dark form pumping through the water using … its feet? What is that fish? I have never seen it before.. Actually, the snorkelers had a chance to be birders as well! A cormorant was fishing underwater, spending extended periods swimming ten feet below the surface, darting into schools of fish and gobbling up one unlucky piscine. A blue-bronze chub swimming literally into arm’s reach of my mask drew my attention back to the normal underwater inhabitants and I was thrilled to see purplish-red-faced sunset wrasses (pictured above) and banana-yellow convict tangs cruising in the shallows. Leaving the parking lot we were treated to a close view of a Cooper’s hawk that flew in front of our bus and alighted on a nearby cardon.
The birding excursion was equally successful. They proudly told us that they all had seen a Xantus’ hummingbird serenely perched on a branch until everyone in the group obtained excellent views. Members of the group also spotted a hooded oriole and a varied bunting. After so much nature watching we were ready for adventure of a different sort and we braved the streets and shops of Cabo San Lucas. Some of us opted to take the culture and art shopping tour of the local artisans while others struck out on our own, marveling at the fine-worked silver jewelry and beautiful beadwork of animals and sunbursts. Leaving port at sunset, we dallied at the cusp between the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean to watch the pink and red hues playing over the granite outcroppings of Friar’s Rocks (shown above). Staring directly overhead at the brightening moon, we could see dark shapes wheeling in the air. Not bats, but magnificent frigatebirds filled the skies and perches of Land’s End. Proud and hopeful male frigates puffed up their red gular pouches for inspection (and hopefully approval) by randy females. Venturing out into the open waters of the Pacific Ocean, a humpback threw its flukes into the air, a black shape against the dying light. Perhaps a good omen of cetacean luck to come?
Awaking today, we were on approach to the Gorda Banks, a submerged set of rocks (seamount) that causes upwelling in this region of the Sea of Cortez. The rich nutrients rising into the sunlit layers of the ocean cause an abundance of plankton which in turn result in a high probability to view our quarry for the day — humpback whales. Soon after breakfast we sighted three: a pair traveling together and a single. We had good views of flukes in the distance, raised to signal the terminal dive. Then, while we discussed the fact that humpbacks were rorqual whales, the many-pleated throat allowing for great expansion while feeding, there was suddenly a breach close to the ship. We waited with baited breath to see if any more breaches would follow (lore has it that breaches most often happen in sets of three) but no more leaps occurred. The whales did show us their slightly curved dorsal fins a few more times before the pair showed its flukes and dove and the single went down. To tease out more whales we did what almost invariably brings them to the surface close to the ship: we started a botany lecture. However we watched the entire suite of stunning slides and heard about the local adaptations to xeric (dry) conditions without a marine mammal sighting interruption.
We practiced identifying our marine creatures using undersea footage from our previous two snorkeling outings and then we were ready to view more at Santa Maria, just outside of Cabo San Lucas. The snorkelers spun slowly watching schools of California needlefish moving just below the water’s surface and yellowfin surgeonfish, both the yellow and dark brown morphs, moving lower in the water column. While mesmerized by a large school of small goatfish using their barbels to probe the sand for invertebrate snacks, my attention was suddenly jerked to a dark form pumping through the water using … its feet? What is that fish? I have never seen it before.. Actually, the snorkelers had a chance to be birders as well! A cormorant was fishing underwater, spending extended periods swimming ten feet below the surface, darting into schools of fish and gobbling up one unlucky piscine. A blue-bronze chub swimming literally into arm’s reach of my mask drew my attention back to the normal underwater inhabitants and I was thrilled to see purplish-red-faced sunset wrasses (pictured above) and banana-yellow convict tangs cruising in the shallows. Leaving the parking lot we were treated to a close view of a Cooper’s hawk that flew in front of our bus and alighted on a nearby cardon.
The birding excursion was equally successful. They proudly told us that they all had seen a Xantus’ hummingbird serenely perched on a branch until everyone in the group obtained excellent views. Members of the group also spotted a hooded oriole and a varied bunting. After so much nature watching we were ready for adventure of a different sort and we braved the streets and shops of Cabo San Lucas. Some of us opted to take the culture and art shopping tour of the local artisans while others struck out on our own, marveling at the fine-worked silver jewelry and beautiful beadwork of animals and sunbursts. Leaving port at sunset, we dallied at the cusp between the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean to watch the pink and red hues playing over the granite outcroppings of Friar’s Rocks (shown above). Staring directly overhead at the brightening moon, we could see dark shapes wheeling in the air. Not bats, but magnificent frigatebirds filled the skies and perches of Land’s End. Proud and hopeful male frigates puffed up their red gular pouches for inspection (and hopefully approval) by randy females. Venturing out into the open waters of the Pacific Ocean, a humpback threw its flukes into the air, a black shape against the dying light. Perhaps a good omen of cetacean luck to come?
