Isla Santa Catalina, and cruising for marine mammals

Sunrise found the MV Sea Bird on approach to Isla Santa Catalina, an island in the Gulf of California, located approximately 70 miles east of the Baja peninsula. This island emerged in the Gulf of California and has never been attached to any of the surrounding land masses. Because of its location, and solitary existence, the island has been colonized entirely by accident… and taken that unusual geologic occurrence, several endemic species of plants and animals have developed on the island. Santa Catalina is home to the rattleless rattlesnake as well the giant barrel cactus, the largest of that species in the world.

Our morning would consist of several walks exploring this crown jewel of the Gulf of California in search of some of its more elusive treasures, as well as the more obvious ones: a walk through a cactus forest. On many faces of hills we traced the meanderings of Giant barrel cactus; on either side their personal guardians, the Giant Cardon cactus all looking as though they were planted in an extraordinarily designed garden. Dramatic morning shadows accompanied us as we walked up the main arroyo that cut through the middle of the island. Long hikers spent nearly three hours making their way to a ridge located 1,000 feet above the Gulf with a spectacular view looking west over water, islands and the distant Baja peninsula. Several other groups wandered through the distinct plants of the lower part of the island, enjoying tasty cactus fruit, while hearing about the survival skills of desert plants and animals.

Returning to the beach, some of our adventuresome group donned wetsuits for a refreshing underwater look in the Gulf waters that circle this unusual Granite Island. As the snorkeling operation was coming to a close, a group of resident Bottle nose dolphins made a feeding pass near the MV Sea Bird, with the two remaining Zodiacs still in the water… and yes, a quick Zodiac ride among the dolphins was essential to the end of our morning! The dolphins were busy feeding, and not too interested in our small water craft.

The Sea Bird left her anchorage just off the eastern side of Isla Santa Catalina and began a slow return passage towards Isla Del Carmen located closer to the Baja peninsula. The natural history staff remained on the bow in search of marine mammals. In the late afternoon, just as searching for marine mammals began to become slightly frustrating, two family members on the bow pointed out a very large blow. The stream of water was seen reaching nearly thirty feet in the air, tall and columnar, and a fairly good guess was announced: we were in the presence of the largest mammal on Earth. A member of the Northern population of Blue whales was definitely making a feeding pass near the northern end of Isla Del Carmen. Our Natural history staff explained that we were very lucky to see a Blue whale in December, because the krill (main food source for Blue whales) do not reach high numbers until February continuing through April. To add to our rare experience, approximately twenty percent of Blue whales show their flukes before they dive; this whale showed its fluke again and again. As the sun set behind the Sierra de la Giganta mountains of the Baja peninsula, we watched as this enormous animal surface. He took at least six or seven breaths, began a very specific rocking motion and then showed us its twenty foot fluke with a cascading waterfall just before he returned to deeper waters.