Isla San Francisco and Los Islotes

We stepped ashore this morning on a beautiful, long, arcing white beach, right at the center of a horseshoe-shaped bay on Isla San Francisco. A group of long hikers ascended a high rock ridge, and from the summit, they made a surprising discovery; far beneath them lay the carcass of a partially decomposed cetacean! It was later identified as a female Risso’s dolphin. Kayakers paddled in the shelter of the bay, beneath red cliffs and next to huge boulders. Brown pelicans perched atop the rocks, decked out in their brightest breeding plumage while Sally Lightfoot crabs scurried across the rocks, just above the lapping waves.

The beach itself had its own surprises: dead porcupine fish and balloon fish were among the treasures left by the waves. Many of us walked behind the beach and across salt flats, past very small salt evaporating ponds made by locals. The huge salt crystals at the edges of the rectangular ponds sparkled in the sun, reminiscent of ice and snow.

As we departed Isla San Francisco, Darron Collins gave an interesting presentation about World Wildlife Fund’s conservation programs. The ship continued south, and shortly after lunch, we dropped anchor very close by Los Islotes. We could hear the barking of the California sea lions from the decks of the ship. Within a few minutes, we were snorkeling with a lively gang of seven-month old sea lion pups. They were very playful! It was debatable who was watching whom; even the best swimmers among us looked clumsy compared to the flexible and fast sea lions. They nipped at our plastic swim fins and at each other’s sea lion flippers. As we bobbed at the surface in our snorkel gear, watching with wide eyes and smiles, they somersaulted, zoomed by in a blur, porpoised out of the water, turned on a dime, and stared into our masks. It was very good fun for all! When we cruised alongside islets in Zodiacs, we saw many more sea lions who appeared to have perfected the art of relaxation; the gregarious animals were draped over the rocks and each other in every position imaginable. As we cruised, they snoozed, and frigate birds and blue-footed boobies flew in the breeze.