Gorda Banks, San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas

Widely dispersed whales appeared randomly as we cruised toward Cabo San Lucas. We neared Gorda Banks, the center of distribution of whales in this area. We found a single animal that consistently fluked up after it’s third blow. That gave us the opportunity to see it often. Competitive groups of males, cows and calves, and feeding animals are sometimes seen here, but today it was difficult to know what this cetacean was doing. Flocks of Red-necked phalaropes sprang off the water and cut sharply left then right flashing white then disappearing as their dark wings and backs blended in with the background then reappearing as another flash reminiscent of card displays at a football game.

We cruised into the harbor of Cabo San Lucas during lunch and soon boarded busses for adventures or walked into town. For many of us, the trip through “Cabo” seemed somehow strangely exotic even though it was all quite familiar, possibly seen through altered vision gained from too much wild scenery. Snorkelers bussed to a beautiful beach with few other people there. The surf broke gently and raced up a sandy shoreline. Beyond the surf, we passed by sergeant majors and were soon with slow moving yellowtail surgeons, conspicuous bicolor parrotfish and giant damsels that chased intruders. Reef cornet fish were suspended motionless and quietly waited.

Our birding walk followed the slow moving Estero San José. This exquisite riparian area has it all. Bulrush stands had clumps of cattails and were surrounded by floating vegetation and open areas. Trees and tall palms filled the background and most importantly of all slow running water filled the weaving green line that cut through the desert. We saw three species of teal, four of other ducks, pied-billed grebes, rails, five egrets and heron species, yellowthroats, four kinds of raptors, and a Caspian tern that repeatedly dove for fish. We seemed to be led from one fantastic sight to another until our list numbered 49 in less than two hours. Perhaps the vermillion flycatcher was even more stunning than the yellowthroat but how can you beat the subtle complexity of a male gadwall.

We passed around Lands End at sunset. The area around the arch was lit a pink color at sunset.