Los Islotes and Bonanza Beach
Early morning on the foredeck, what had been the ragged black outline of Los Islotes was looming closer by the minute. Blue footed boobies lined the cliff tops, and California sea lions were draped everywhere across the available flat rocks. The steep cliffs created an echo chamber for their characteristic barking calls, and soon the deck was filled with trip participants, responding to the sea lions good morning calls.
There were many deep sighs at breakfast; no one was ready to disembark tomorrow. The life and light of the Sea of Cortez has captured us all. But with the day’s adventures ahead, there was no time to dwell. I was one of the first group to don my snorkeling gear and flip off the side of the Zodiac and into the shallow rocky shores of Los Islotes. My plunging entrance scattered a mixed species school of sergeant majors and surgeonfish, and they regrouped right in front of me and went lazily on their way. Suddenly, two dark large torpedo shaped bodies flew past me. Thrilled to be so close to juvenile sea lions, I dove down to the bottom and swam after them, twirling with them. Three more joined us. Soon a dozen sea lions and I were playfully dancing underwater together. They came within inches, their wide glassy eyes looking right into mine through my mask. There was no threat here, only two species curiously connecting with each other. A huge bull swam slowly back and forth through our ruckus. Enthralled and breathless, I was the last one of my group to leave the sea lion’s gentle green world.
This week we’ve given up on trying to label our favorite experience. There’s no competition, just one meaningful event after the next. So no one bothered to compare swimming with sea lions to kayaking the calm waters enclosed by the long white sand arc of Bahia Bonanza on Isla Espiritu Santo. Others slowly walked the inviting length of the shell-strewn beach, and some hiked into the island’s interior. The shadows grow long now, the Sea of Cortez is darkening, and our last evening together approaches. Guided by our knowledgeable, enthusiastic and witty hosts, in just one week we have been exposed to and touched by the austere mystery of the Sea of Cortez.
Early morning on the foredeck, what had been the ragged black outline of Los Islotes was looming closer by the minute. Blue footed boobies lined the cliff tops, and California sea lions were draped everywhere across the available flat rocks. The steep cliffs created an echo chamber for their characteristic barking calls, and soon the deck was filled with trip participants, responding to the sea lions good morning calls.
There were many deep sighs at breakfast; no one was ready to disembark tomorrow. The life and light of the Sea of Cortez has captured us all. But with the day’s adventures ahead, there was no time to dwell. I was one of the first group to don my snorkeling gear and flip off the side of the Zodiac and into the shallow rocky shores of Los Islotes. My plunging entrance scattered a mixed species school of sergeant majors and surgeonfish, and they regrouped right in front of me and went lazily on their way. Suddenly, two dark large torpedo shaped bodies flew past me. Thrilled to be so close to juvenile sea lions, I dove down to the bottom and swam after them, twirling with them. Three more joined us. Soon a dozen sea lions and I were playfully dancing underwater together. They came within inches, their wide glassy eyes looking right into mine through my mask. There was no threat here, only two species curiously connecting with each other. A huge bull swam slowly back and forth through our ruckus. Enthralled and breathless, I was the last one of my group to leave the sea lion’s gentle green world.
This week we’ve given up on trying to label our favorite experience. There’s no competition, just one meaningful event after the next. So no one bothered to compare swimming with sea lions to kayaking the calm waters enclosed by the long white sand arc of Bahia Bonanza on Isla Espiritu Santo. Others slowly walked the inviting length of the shell-strewn beach, and some hiked into the island’s interior. The shadows grow long now, the Sea of Cortez is darkening, and our last evening together approaches. Guided by our knowledgeable, enthusiastic and witty hosts, in just one week we have been exposed to and touched by the austere mystery of the Sea of Cortez.
