Los Islotes & Ensenada Grande

We wake at Los Islotes. Sleek fury sea lions are piled like cord wood – some golden, some chocolate brown – each enjoying each others body warmth. Whiskers twitching, soft noses sneezing, smooth flippers waving, not a “Hello” but perhaps thermoregulating their torpedo bodies, graceful and fast. Warm bodies melted into each other.

Above the sea lions on impossibly small ledges boobies perch and attempt to lay a couple of eggs – several white downy chicks are spied. Booby eggs are tapered at one end. If mama bird accidentally kicks the egg, it will tend to roll in a tight circle instead of being pitched off the cliff. Overhead, magnificent frigatebirds - witches on broomsticks - soar patiently waiting to swoop down and attack another sea bird and steal a regurgitated fishy meal.

A Zodiac tour of Los Islotes is diverted by a racing group of common dolphins as we attempt to join in. Camera shutters whir as multiple megapixels are burned to capture the cetacean sprint.

Late morning finds most of us in the water having close encounters with the California sea lions and myriads of fish.

In the afternoon, some of the photographers present the best of their week’s work, and a grand showing it is. All, including the photo experts, are impressed. Wildlife, botanical close-ups, candid people, and abstracts delight the viewers. The slide shows exude creative energy.

Our day continues with a brief sighting of a humpback whale and her calf, who spout a few times before raising their flukes in a deep dive. Then off to a deep bay cut into Isla Espiritu Santo called Ensenada Grande for water sports followed by a fitting conclusion of a spectacular sunset while enjoying a barbeque ashore. Not long after sunset, the jealous moon greets us again. We gather around the campfire; time for us to emulate the sea lions.