Rasa & Angel de la Guarda Islands

Dawn found the Sea Bird at anchorage beside Isla Rasa, a small, low-lying island in the “midriff” region of the Sea of Cortez where the gulf narrows and spawns strong tidal currents and fertile upwelling. These churning waters support some of the greatest gatherings of wildlife in Baja. Rasa is home to one of them.

Hundreds of thousands of seabirds nest on the island during the height of the breeding season, and although our visit is still a bit early, the skies and seas were filled with birds. Because breeding had not started on shore, Jack proposed that we use the Zodiacs to circle the island and concentrate on the abundant life along its edge.

It turned out to be a brilliant move; elegant terns by the thousands lined the rocky shoreline, and we had ringside seats for all the passion and drama of the mating season. On small rocks at the water’s edge, these handsome birds courted and danced, argued and fought. Some males carried fish in their beaks as courtship gifts. And overhead, prospective pairs engaged in spectacular synchronized flights.

After lunch we sailed north toward Canal de Ballenas – Whale Channel – where we quickly stumbled onto a new species for the trip, the Bryde’s whale. Medium-sized for a baleen whale, the Bryde’s is common here, but notoriously hard to follow; they seem to zigzag underwater and never come up near where they went down.

Afternoon found us at Bahia Este Ton, a scenic anchorage on the western shore of Angel de La Guarda (Guardian Angel) Island. Here, sheer mountains rise dramatically from the water’s edge, the painted cliffs revealed an astonishing variety of natural colors. Many of us took this last opportunity to explore the coastline in kayaks, while others ventured inland with cameras and binoculars in the late afternoon light.