Victoria, British Columbia and San Juan Island
Gentle pastels began the day. To the east a silvery layer of fog hung on the water. Above the sky was a delicate pink. The San Juan Islands were behind us but the only indication of their presence was a lilac cloud presumably capping the land. The lights of Victoria on the southern tip of Vancouver Island flicked off as daylight filtered through the quiet stillness all around. Strange shadows in the darkness metamorphosed into surprising entities. A tiny tug scampered at the flanks of a giant log boom like a sheep dog keeping his herd in line. The massive bulk of the USS Nimitz appeared, dozens of planes neatly parked on the deck.
Hues intensified from the moment we entered Victoria’s inner harbour (-our in Canada!). The city itself was a riot of colour. Old-fashioned lampposts hosted lush hanging baskets. Variegated vines cascaded from window boxes. Famous Butchart Gardens glowed with all the colours of the rainbow. Periodically wanderers would stop dead in their tracks. Watchers in the distance were puzzled to see our strange circling behavior, noses sniffing the air. The scents of the gardens were as tantalizing as the shades. Was it vanilla or almond, that sweet smell? What a surprise to find the lavender heliotrope from which it emanated was know as “cherry pie plant”! And of course everyone stopped to smell the roses decorated with dewdrops glistening in the fresh morning air.
Regal robes from Britain’s monarchy and First Nations chieftains could be found in the Royal British Columbia Museum. Visitors from countries far and wide added their unique flavor to the crowds shopping on Government Street or perusing the craft booths along the waterfront.
As the sun meandered towards the western sky, we headed east towards Friday Harbor to re-enter the United States. But our passage was halted with screams and excitement. First there was one and then there were four. Minke whales! Strong currents drew dark lines across the otherwise calm seas. Thousands of common murres peppered the water as far as we could see. Periodically gangs would merge into tight clusters attracting noisy nosy argumentative gulls. Suddenly the crowd would scatter, tiny fish joining the fleeing fray. A larger body then rose in the exact same spot, flattened rostrum followed by falcate dorsal fin. Mount Baker towered in the background, its snowy flanks progressing from ivory to crimson. The sun dragged all but its orange and gold glow behind the distant mountains and the purple of night intruded. But it was alone only momentarily as the gilded full moon bounced into the sky.
