Johnstone Strait & Alert Bay

As we cruised northward through Johnstone Strait, the morning sun was already burning off clouds left over from last night’s rain. The south wind meant that the ship’s superstructure would effectively block the wind for those of us on the bow.

This time of year coastal British Columbia is a major flyway for migratory birds of all kinds. We were not disappointed. There were common murres, loons, surf scoters, rhinoceros auklets, marbled murrelets, fork-tailed storm petrels, and gulls galore, including black-legged kittiwakes, Bonaparte’s and Sabine’s. All the while, thousands of shearwaters sliced through the air on scimitar wings.

Mesmerized by all the bird activity, we almost missed the Dall’s- and harbor porpoises that gracefully carved the waters around our boat.

As the Sea Bird sailed north, we gathered in the lounge to hear staff naturalist David Stephens give a gripping account of the art and culture of the Pacific Northwest. David proceeded to work his magic to a rapt audience, painting vivid imagery with his voice and hands. Fascinating art objects from his private collection were a great addition to the program.

We arrived in Alert Bay shortly after noon and proceeded to the U’mista cultural museum, erected to showcase ceremonial masks that had recently been returned to the island’s people by the Canadian government. It was a great honor to have been invited to witness a ceremonial unveiling of a new totem pole that signifies the connection between the generations. Museum guides provided information about the masks, legends, art and history of the local people. Afterward, we proceeded up the hill to the tribal longhouse to observe ritual stories and dances. All-aboard was just after 5:30 and dinner was served immediately after the naturalists’ recap—a brief review of topics and issues raised by the day’s activities.

We looked forward to the days ahead and adventures yet to come.