Dominica

At 0600 hours, while the sky was still gray with early twilight, we sailed up the lee side of the mountainous island of Dominica (pronounced Domin-ee’-ka). Colombus might recognize this tall, lush volcanic island today. Known as the ‘Nature Island,’ Dominica boasts 365 rivers, many waterfalls, a boiling lake, and 72% of it is still forested and undeveloped.

We docked at Cabrits National Park on the island’s northwest coast, and for our morning excursion we boarded minivans and visited lush rainforest in Morne Diablotin National Park. ‘Devil Mountain’ got its name from black-capped petrels, seabirds that are extremely scarce now, but that once flew to and from their mountain nests at night. We walked the Syndicate Nature Trail, at an altitude of 1500 feet, where annual rainfall is over 300 inches. The dark forest floor supports tree ferns, while other plants such as bromeliads, anthuriums, and orchids find sunlight by growing higher up, on the surface of the forest’s giant trees.

Some of the largest of the trees are supported by enormous buttress roots. We heard parrot calls as we walked, and some of us were lucky enough to catch glimpses of at least one of the endangered parrot species endemic to this island. Local citrus farmers attempt to discourage the Jaco (red-necked parrot) from eating fruits by shooting sound cannons, while the far more scarce Sisserou (imperial parrot) remains at higher elevations. One of our local guides, Honore, impressed many of us with his talents at mimicking calls of the forest’s birds. After enjoying a refreshing beverage at the visitor center, we returned to the shore and ship.

As we finished lunch, local historian Lennox Honychurch spoke about his island home and his restoration of Fort Shirley, situated on the hill overlooking the pier and Prince Rupert Bay. Our afternoon included exploration of the nearby fort, and snorkeling right at the pier, amongst colorful fishes, corals and sponges.