South Marble Island

As the sun rose near Bartlett Cove, the Sea Lion was making her way dockside to pick up an extra guest speaker for the day. Once our park ranger was on board, lines were dropped and slowly we pulled away from the lodge at Bartlett Cove and the last mark of civilization we would see for the remainder of the day. Slowly the Sea Lion began her passage north heading up Glacier Bay Inlet in to the heavy morning mist…..suddenly, the early morning fog lifted away from the Sea Lion, and the full compliment of guests, crew and staff found themselves face to face with Glacier Bay National Park unveiled in a never ending panorama of snow-capped mountains and stunning scenery from the water’s edge to the top of Mount Fairweather! Our day began with a slow cruise by South Marble Island, a seabird and Steller sea lion haul-out. The Glaucous gull chicks were out of their protective nests and wandering about under the watchful eye of at least one of their parents. These little gray puffballs marched back and forth demanding more food from the closest parent. The water around South Marble Island had a nice sprinkling of Tufted puffins swimming nervously about attempting to avoid our large white vessel as the Sea Lion continued making a close pass along the rocky cliff of the east side of South Marble.

We continued gazing in all directions at the high mountains; receding mists, backlit islands and all our senses were filled with the amazing good fortune to see this glorious park on a clear, late summer day. As the Sea Lion continued, the melodious roars of Steller Sea lions awakened our auditory senses. At the north end of South Marble Island we found a haul-out for predominantly male sea lions. Many were quite young and small in size, but all of these animals seemed to be enjoying a good bask in the sun! There was the usual momentary jostling for position, then all was quiet, then another small uproar, then quiet and as with ourselves, these sea lions seemed to be enjoying the warmth of this rare sunny day in Glacier Bay. Slowly the Sea Lion pulled away from South Marble Island and continued on her journey north up Glacier Bay stopping for a Brown bear heading up on of the many small rivers that feeds into Glacier Bay. We were making our way towards Gloomy Knob in hopes of finding Mountain goats in close view. As we cruised north a large group of Mountain goats were spotted several thousand feet up on a near by ridge….small creamy dots decorating a meadow! As our vessel slowed her engines near Gloomy Knob we were gifted again with a relaxed and wonderfully posed Mountain goat fairly low on Gloomy Knob. As the Sea Lion was expertly maneuvered in towards the face of Gloomy Knob, the Mountain Goat continued munching on foliage and carrying on with his daily activities, while taking the time for relaxing in the gorgeous weather of the day! Reluctantly we pulled away, and continued on our way towards Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers. Our journey was sixty-five miles each way and with the continued good weather it was our hope to see several of the glaciers located at the northern end of Glacier Bay.

Just after lunch we were positioned in front of Margerie and Grand Pacific Glacier. The sun was out it was very warm and already many of us had put on shorts and lighter shirts and sweaters to enjoy the rays of sun pouring down over the Sea Lion and Glacier Bay National Park. We had been informed on several occasions by our guest park ranger and the natural history staff that this kind of sun was extremely rare! Soon cameras were out and everyone came to the bow to take pictures, have pictures taken, help each family and couple and individual accomplish being photographed in front of the pale blue ice of Margerie Glacier.

The ice from calving glaciers, that can often clog the Sea Lion's passage up Tarr Inlet at the north end of Glacier Bay was minimal and allowed a close approach to Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers. This clear passage also allowed for another viewing just ten miles away and slightly to the west past Jaw Point and within four miles of the Johns Hopkins Glacier. It was here that we would turn around and begin our return, fifty-five miles back to Bartlett Cove and the entrance to Glacier Bay National Park. Some us spent the afternoon relaxing while others joined our Natural History staff on the bow for a little impromptu folk music! As the Sea Lion cruised south we took in the warmth, not only of the sun above but in the companionship with each other, of a day spent sharing the beauty of sculpted ice rivers pouring into the sea, white thunder echoing across the water, forests taking hold of the land, and the sights of many different animals on land, in the air and in the water who call Glacier Bay their home.