Chichagof Island
The Sea Lion moved south along the eastern side of Chichagof Island. The sun peeked over the mountains of Admiralty Island like a small diamond gathering brilliance as it rose in a clear sky. The winds of yesterday were gone and before us opened an incredibly clear view of some of the 1,000 islands that make up Southeast Alaska. Due to fine weather conditions our expedition leader decided to offer some Zodiac cruising in Iyoukeen Cove on the eastern side of Chichagof Island where several humpback whales were feeding. Once the Zodiacs were ready the Sea Lion's compliment of guests was divided into two groups and the first cruisers made their way to the aft section of the vessel in preparation to board our smaller crafts. Soon each Zodiac was in its own world experiencing quick swimming Dall's porpoise, bald eagles and their enormous nests, several species of shore birds, and the occasional but somewhat elusive blow of a humpback whale. Along the shoreline of Chichagof Island a small meandering stream hosted a noisy squadron of gulls on guard, several immature and mature bald eagles in the surrounding trees - waiting and watching as the stream filled with migrating humpy salmon drew their attention. Our Zodiac drivers maneuvered carefully upstream while we watched schools of salmon dart in and out and around our boats.
Soon it was time for the exchange and the Zodiacs returned to the Sea Lion for a second set of cruisers. Once again the shoreline world of Chichagof Island came alive for it's observers. The weather was still magnificent and yet another new idea for September in Alaska was presented to the crew, staff and guests of the Sea Lion. Why not an afternoon on shore starting with a beach barbecue? The response was overwhelmingly positive on all sides and preparations were started. Chairs, barbecues, tables, a small bar, and all the food were moved to a beach inside Pavlof Harbor on the south side of Freshwater Bay. After a delightful meal of marinated Halibut, flank steak, green salad, potato salad, fresh baked bread and watermelon…..a walk was in order! Several hikes were offered all centering on a waterfall just upstream from our luncheon beach. Zodiacs were used to transfer the short distance from the barbecue sight to the beginning of our hike through the forest on our way to a small cascade where humpy salmon were again migrating.
We divided into several lengths of walks and began our journey by entering the forest and moving along a well-used bear trail. The Sitka spruce was the dominant tree taking the meager soil of the temperate rainforest to grow tall in some spots and dwarfed and rounded in others, offering the perfect perch for some hikers as they moved along the bear trail. Looking from the canopy of the forest to the ground we found many an unusual fungi decorating the forest floor with color and odd but delightful shapes.
We followed the sound of the nearby waterfall and shortly we were out of the trees, into the sun and walking along the edge of the stream scattered with the dead bodies of spawned out salmon. Just under the waterfall the salmon were gathering, waiting, resting, getting ready to attempt the big jump up several steps in the cascades to a free flowing river. We stood mesmerized, watching a cycle of life unfolding before us. There were gulls and bald eagles near the edges of the stream. Pressed into the mud of trails along the stream there were many footprints of brown bears. Obviously many species were gathering for the end of this particular salmon's life cycle. We watched as a fish moved into the shallows near the bank of the stream obviously spent, unable to go any further, lying on its side, moving its jaw and gills only…. A fecundity of sound sights and smell. A tiny part of the great web of life that makes up the temperate rain forest given to us this warm and sunny afternoon.
The Sea Lion moved south along the eastern side of Chichagof Island. The sun peeked over the mountains of Admiralty Island like a small diamond gathering brilliance as it rose in a clear sky. The winds of yesterday were gone and before us opened an incredibly clear view of some of the 1,000 islands that make up Southeast Alaska. Due to fine weather conditions our expedition leader decided to offer some Zodiac cruising in Iyoukeen Cove on the eastern side of Chichagof Island where several humpback whales were feeding. Once the Zodiacs were ready the Sea Lion's compliment of guests was divided into two groups and the first cruisers made their way to the aft section of the vessel in preparation to board our smaller crafts. Soon each Zodiac was in its own world experiencing quick swimming Dall's porpoise, bald eagles and their enormous nests, several species of shore birds, and the occasional but somewhat elusive blow of a humpback whale. Along the shoreline of Chichagof Island a small meandering stream hosted a noisy squadron of gulls on guard, several immature and mature bald eagles in the surrounding trees - waiting and watching as the stream filled with migrating humpy salmon drew their attention. Our Zodiac drivers maneuvered carefully upstream while we watched schools of salmon dart in and out and around our boats.
Soon it was time for the exchange and the Zodiacs returned to the Sea Lion for a second set of cruisers. Once again the shoreline world of Chichagof Island came alive for it's observers. The weather was still magnificent and yet another new idea for September in Alaska was presented to the crew, staff and guests of the Sea Lion. Why not an afternoon on shore starting with a beach barbecue? The response was overwhelmingly positive on all sides and preparations were started. Chairs, barbecues, tables, a small bar, and all the food were moved to a beach inside Pavlof Harbor on the south side of Freshwater Bay. After a delightful meal of marinated Halibut, flank steak, green salad, potato salad, fresh baked bread and watermelon…..a walk was in order! Several hikes were offered all centering on a waterfall just upstream from our luncheon beach. Zodiacs were used to transfer the short distance from the barbecue sight to the beginning of our hike through the forest on our way to a small cascade where humpy salmon were again migrating.
We divided into several lengths of walks and began our journey by entering the forest and moving along a well-used bear trail. The Sitka spruce was the dominant tree taking the meager soil of the temperate rainforest to grow tall in some spots and dwarfed and rounded in others, offering the perfect perch for some hikers as they moved along the bear trail. Looking from the canopy of the forest to the ground we found many an unusual fungi decorating the forest floor with color and odd but delightful shapes.
We followed the sound of the nearby waterfall and shortly we were out of the trees, into the sun and walking along the edge of the stream scattered with the dead bodies of spawned out salmon. Just under the waterfall the salmon were gathering, waiting, resting, getting ready to attempt the big jump up several steps in the cascades to a free flowing river. We stood mesmerized, watching a cycle of life unfolding before us. There were gulls and bald eagles near the edges of the stream. Pressed into the mud of trails along the stream there were many footprints of brown bears. Obviously many species were gathering for the end of this particular salmon's life cycle. We watched as a fish moved into the shallows near the bank of the stream obviously spent, unable to go any further, lying on its side, moving its jaw and gills only…. A fecundity of sound sights and smell. A tiny part of the great web of life that makes up the temperate rain forest given to us this warm and sunny afternoon.
