Glacier Bay National Park
We woke this morning to low clouds, weighed down with the moisture that fuels Southeast Alaska’s fertile landscapes. The muted skies and misty weather provided a subtle backdrop to the spectacular “iceworks” that started off our day. We opened our cabin doors to the imposing face of Johns Hopkins Glacier, located at the north westerly end of Glacier Bay National Park. Dramatic horizontal stripes of dark moraine material contrasted against the white and blue glacier wall. Relics from the Little Ice Age, the long and narrow Gilman Glacier slinks in from the left, joining Johns Hopkins in an impressive mass of ice. Content even to watch this ice sit still in the peaceful hour before breakfast, we gaped and cheered as he let loose large chunks to the water below. As we took refuge from the cold and headed indoors to warm our toes and fill our bellies, Johns Hopkins sent off a final farewell, releasing a giant chunk from its center to a chorus of gleeful yelps from the decks.
It’s hard to top such a morning. We could have set out to Bartlett Cove after this show, but we had more wilderness to explore. Cruising the shoreline, we ignored the weather, scanning for furred and feathered critters. A range of sightings rewarded our efforts: from squinted looks at an elusive mountain goat to excellent clear views of both tufted and horned puffins. Gangs of sea lions splashed about before basking on the rocks at South Marble Island; sea otters floated and frolicked amongst the kelp rafts at Boulders.
The highlight, however, came mid-afternoon as we sailed into Shag Cove, in Geike Inlet. Admiring the scenery- the variegated forest - with chartreuse tones intermingling amongst the deep greens, a rushing river at the end of the cove, accented by waterfalls and meandering streams- we sat in anticipation for the cove’s residents. Two ears perked above the tall blades of grass, followed by six more. A gray wolf and three pups emerged, treating us to a rare glimpse at these animals typically found in the forest’s interior. We observed these creatures for almost an hour, initially watching the three pups rustling about each other in playful banter as the adult stood off to the side. Another adult joined the group, and the group of five rambled through the grass, the kids lagging behind the adults. Soon, one of the adults headed to the stream to catch a salmon for their feast. The pups joined it, and made their own attempts at fishing. The spotting scope and our binoculars allowed us to peek in on their picnic, close enough to see the fish’s futile attempts at escape from the tight clench of the wolves’ teeth.
We ended our day in Glacier Bay National Park at Bartlett Cove, where we stretched our legs on walks through the forest, with animated discussions on the day’s events.
We woke this morning to low clouds, weighed down with the moisture that fuels Southeast Alaska’s fertile landscapes. The muted skies and misty weather provided a subtle backdrop to the spectacular “iceworks” that started off our day. We opened our cabin doors to the imposing face of Johns Hopkins Glacier, located at the north westerly end of Glacier Bay National Park. Dramatic horizontal stripes of dark moraine material contrasted against the white and blue glacier wall. Relics from the Little Ice Age, the long and narrow Gilman Glacier slinks in from the left, joining Johns Hopkins in an impressive mass of ice. Content even to watch this ice sit still in the peaceful hour before breakfast, we gaped and cheered as he let loose large chunks to the water below. As we took refuge from the cold and headed indoors to warm our toes and fill our bellies, Johns Hopkins sent off a final farewell, releasing a giant chunk from its center to a chorus of gleeful yelps from the decks.
It’s hard to top such a morning. We could have set out to Bartlett Cove after this show, but we had more wilderness to explore. Cruising the shoreline, we ignored the weather, scanning for furred and feathered critters. A range of sightings rewarded our efforts: from squinted looks at an elusive mountain goat to excellent clear views of both tufted and horned puffins. Gangs of sea lions splashed about before basking on the rocks at South Marble Island; sea otters floated and frolicked amongst the kelp rafts at Boulders.
The highlight, however, came mid-afternoon as we sailed into Shag Cove, in Geike Inlet. Admiring the scenery- the variegated forest - with chartreuse tones intermingling amongst the deep greens, a rushing river at the end of the cove, accented by waterfalls and meandering streams- we sat in anticipation for the cove’s residents. Two ears perked above the tall blades of grass, followed by six more. A gray wolf and three pups emerged, treating us to a rare glimpse at these animals typically found in the forest’s interior. We observed these creatures for almost an hour, initially watching the three pups rustling about each other in playful banter as the adult stood off to the side. Another adult joined the group, and the group of five rambled through the grass, the kids lagging behind the adults. Soon, one of the adults headed to the stream to catch a salmon for their feast. The pups joined it, and made their own attempts at fishing. The spotting scope and our binoculars allowed us to peek in on their picnic, close enough to see the fish’s futile attempts at escape from the tight clench of the wolves’ teeth.
We ended our day in Glacier Bay National Park at Bartlett Cove, where we stretched our legs on walks through the forest, with animated discussions on the day’s events.
