Frilled anemones fringing the dock
To sleep is to miss wildlife in southeast Alaska. Well before wake-up call this morning, we were treated to views of Steller sea lions hauled out on the rocks, and two sea otters feeding in the water. The morning stillness was broken by the sea otter’s loud, high-pitched call. Perhaps it was a mother, warning her pup of the boat’s approach? Entering Cross Sound, we glimpsed the Pacific Ocean, but more exciting was the two humpback whales that flanked the boat. Suddenly we found ourselves amidst at least five humpbacks who were spouting and fluking close enough to see the powerful muscle bundles in their sleek sides. Anchoring at George Island, we explored Granite Cove via kayaks and hiking. A bald eagle perched in its massive nest while horned puffins wheeled in the air. Pelagic cormorants investigated future nesting ledges, their calls echoing from the crevices. Curious Steller sea lions porpoised next to our kayaks, close enough for us to hear their exhales and peer down into their open mouths. At the shoreline, purple and orange sea stars clung to the rocks, and we could not resist the urge to investigate more closely. Scrambling over slippery kelp, spritzing sea grapes and bubblegum-colored coralline algae, we peered under ledges and lifted rocks. We marveled at Katie’s chitons, strawberry soft coral and lemon dorid nudibranchs (why would you encircle your anus with your gills?). We stroked the multitude of tube feet of a leather star and a many-armed sunflower star, appreciating their potential as powerful subtidal predators. Our hiking expedition reached the apex of the bluff and was treated to overlooks of the impressive Brady Glacier with humpback whales blowing. We learned of the importance of this island during World War II.
After lunch, we visited the small village of Elfin Cove. Despite the beauty of this safe harbor, none of us could imagine spending a winter with only twenty other people in town. Wandering along the mossy boardwalks, the tight-knit self-reliance and fishing-based economy of this town were evident. Sailing back out into Icy Strait, we scanned the horizon for new marine mammals and spied two sea otters (a mother and her pup) resting within a kelp bed, an algal blade tethering them in place. Cruising past a sea lion haul-out, we listened as the immense males growled at each other, vying for the perfect patch of rock on which to recline. Those of us who braved the mist that began to fall were treated to nice views of two harbor porpoises, their small dorsal fins flashing momentarily above the water before they dove below again. To finish up before dinner, we cruised alongside three humpback whales that were so close to the shoreline that it seemed as if their long pectoral flippers must graze the rocks as they glided past. We sank happy and exhausted into bed as another beautiful day came to an end.
To sleep is to miss wildlife in southeast Alaska. Well before wake-up call this morning, we were treated to views of Steller sea lions hauled out on the rocks, and two sea otters feeding in the water. The morning stillness was broken by the sea otter’s loud, high-pitched call. Perhaps it was a mother, warning her pup of the boat’s approach? Entering Cross Sound, we glimpsed the Pacific Ocean, but more exciting was the two humpback whales that flanked the boat. Suddenly we found ourselves amidst at least five humpbacks who were spouting and fluking close enough to see the powerful muscle bundles in their sleek sides. Anchoring at George Island, we explored Granite Cove via kayaks and hiking. A bald eagle perched in its massive nest while horned puffins wheeled in the air. Pelagic cormorants investigated future nesting ledges, their calls echoing from the crevices. Curious Steller sea lions porpoised next to our kayaks, close enough for us to hear their exhales and peer down into their open mouths. At the shoreline, purple and orange sea stars clung to the rocks, and we could not resist the urge to investigate more closely. Scrambling over slippery kelp, spritzing sea grapes and bubblegum-colored coralline algae, we peered under ledges and lifted rocks. We marveled at Katie’s chitons, strawberry soft coral and lemon dorid nudibranchs (why would you encircle your anus with your gills?). We stroked the multitude of tube feet of a leather star and a many-armed sunflower star, appreciating their potential as powerful subtidal predators. Our hiking expedition reached the apex of the bluff and was treated to overlooks of the impressive Brady Glacier with humpback whales blowing. We learned of the importance of this island during World War II.
After lunch, we visited the small village of Elfin Cove. Despite the beauty of this safe harbor, none of us could imagine spending a winter with only twenty other people in town. Wandering along the mossy boardwalks, the tight-knit self-reliance and fishing-based economy of this town were evident. Sailing back out into Icy Strait, we scanned the horizon for new marine mammals and spied two sea otters (a mother and her pup) resting within a kelp bed, an algal blade tethering them in place. Cruising past a sea lion haul-out, we listened as the immense males growled at each other, vying for the perfect patch of rock on which to recline. Those of us who braved the mist that began to fall were treated to nice views of two harbor porpoises, their small dorsal fins flashing momentarily above the water before they dove below again. To finish up before dinner, we cruised alongside three humpback whales that were so close to the shoreline that it seemed as if their long pectoral flippers must graze the rocks as they glided past. We sank happy and exhausted into bed as another beautiful day came to an end.
