The oceans hold a treasure chest of myths and mysteries about the great whales of the world. We humans have been seeking this treasure chest for centuries. Activities and behaviours of marine mammals remain virtually unseen, as they occur in the depths of the oceans. Yet the lives of whales spawn all sorts of "truths". Should we simply accept these truths or are they really just assumptions? Perhaps less than two percent of a whale's daily activity occurs above the surface of the water; yet for years whalers, whale watchers and scientists have fashioned stories that capture our imagination and to which each of us may ultimately swear to be fact. Today was a day for us to test some of these stories.
We awoke at anchor near Boca de Soledad, the roiling neck of water that connects the beautiful Pacific Ocean to the calm, warm waters of Hull Canal. The canal, a natural channel, separates the endless and ever-changing sand dunes of Isla Magdalena from the Baja California peninsula. From Sea Lion's decks, gray whales were immediately visible as they held their position in the flooding tide --- spy-hops, head-lunges and the sounds and sights of their misty spouts. Young calves, most of which were less than two months old, held close to their huge mothers. For each towering breath of the mother, three or four small spouts would burst up from the calf.
With such a start to the day, it was difficult to break away for breakfast. But we did, and soon after were boarding our Zodiacs - some of us to enjoy an early morning walk among the mangroves, over the dunes and along an endless, shell-covered beach; others to venture over the water to approach the whales. The early hikers enjoyed close-up, scope-assisted looks at elegant little blue herons, reddish egrets, long-billed curlews and nesting double-crested cormorants. A stately peregrine falcon perched on the highest sand dune, searching with magnificent eyes for a passing songbird or a slow shorebird. A pair of coyotes lounged close to the cool and protective cover of the mangroves, but tolerated our remarkably close approach. The food of this wild dog is scarce in the relentless desert, and fresh water even more so. What they eat is whatever they may find along the beaches - carrion of all sorts, injured birds, young jackrabbits and stranded fish. Their water comes from these foods. Somehow they survive.
Hikers traded places with whale-watchers throughout the day, with each group exchanging stories. A deck barbecue in the warm sun topped the luncheon fare, and dinner was another special treat…a traditional Mexican fiesta, complete with live music, all provided for us by the residents of nearby Puerto Lopez Mateos.
As much fun as it was on the beach and at our meals, it was difficult to top the excitement of the whale watchers. Close contact with gray whales occurs only rarely, but when it does it is an utterly emotional experience. Many of us were extremely fortunate today to encounter a mother and calf that were perfectly content to be near our black rubber boats. Our collective adrenaline rush was massive. Fear. Wonder. Surprise. Joy. Disbelief. Humility. Love. Passion. Our emotions swirled in our heads, just as the massive whales swirled in the water around us. This was an experience that will never be forgotten. For many of us it may never be matched. But it happened, and we will all be talking about it for many years. We reached down and grasped a few of the gold coins from the treasure chest of whale mysteries. Our understanding and appreciation of these remarkable creatures are now a little bit greater. But there remain many more coins in that golden chest. Some day we may reach down again and grasp a few more. We will be all the richer for it.
