San Francisquito & Isla Rasa
Sunrise found the Sea Lion 160 miles north of her previous evening's anchorage. We were heading for our morning destination of San Francisquito, a point on the mainland of the Baja peninsula. We had plans for walks in the desert, kayaking, beach combing, and swimming. It was a gloriously warm day and hopes were high for new sightings on land, and for those exploring the waters close to the shoreline. Once the Zodiacs were launched, hikers were taken ashore, where birders, desert explorers, and independent walkers all dispersed in various directions. Meanwhile kayaks had been brought ashore, and shortly there after those interested in kayaking at this convenient low tide headed out, lead by Erika, who described much of what was visible on the exposed rocks.
A small group of us were exploring the tidal area close to shore, looking for any unusual colors, movements and shapes! Low and behold, a very curious octopus peeked out from under a large cluster of algae. Looking up, very tentatively this 15 inch long octopus gazed at a group of five sets of legs standing in the water….not moving…..slowly the octopus pulled out, decided those five sets of legs were mildly interesting and safe to travel past. We all watched as this gorgeous cephalopod undulated gracefully past, casting a wary glance at the obvious intruders to this unique intertidal area. Hikers on shore were busy discovering snakes, lizards, land birds and the heat that the desert can indeed produce, even at this early hour of the day! Several hikers descended into the water as if they were wilted flowers, stopping short at knee level, as the water temperature was quite cool. Though, some hardy souls did manage a quick plunge!
Soon Zodiacs began shuttling hikers, kayakers and beach explorers back to the Sea Lion. The crew prepared the vessel for extended movement north heading for the bird colony of Isla Rasa. Conditions were excellent for finding marine mammals, and the natural history staff was on the bow watching in all directions. Suddenly a hysterical announcement came from just that location. It was Steve our expedition leader, screaming, "THERE IS A WHALE BREACHING FIFTY FEET OFF THE BOW OF THE SHIP!" The crowd trying to make its way up the stairs from the main lounge and dining room was amazing….in just two minutes nearly the entire compliment of the ship was present on the bow watching the end of four breaches made by a small Minke whale. The Sea Lion continued staying in close proximity to this whale for the next forty minutes or so and then we decided to move towards what appeared to be a few blows seen in the distance. The blows were spotted in the midst of a large group of feeding birds. As the ship approached several of us gazed over the bow and saw that the water was a veritable soup of living creatures representing nearly the entire food chain. Small zooplankton munched on the photosynthesizing phytoplankton and in turn fell prey to swirling euphausiids and mysids. These, in their turn, were snapped up by small fish who then disappeared into the buccal cavities of giant squid that careened next to the side of our ship. Although squid provide sustenance for some whales, the fin whales that provided the show today were mostly feeding on the smaller shrimp-like krill that clouded the water surface with their swarms of millions. These smaller creatures were also being snatched by birds in flight and on the waters surface…and as that same water began to boil the birds took flight as these white-right chinned marine mammals surfaced mouths agape, continuing their surface feeding. They moved back and forth through the water taking in enormous amounts of water and krill, filling their bellies with food and occasionally leaving a reddish stain on the surface behind them as a reminder of their presence, just before descending below the water and out of sight. The bow of the Sea Lion was filled with enthusiastic observers, keeping track of the movement of these whales as they rose to the surface on their sides with ventral pleats completely extended, white chins visible, and often the entire length of the whale moved right across the bow of the ship!
Soon it seemed this massive feeding frenzy was finished, or may be just this small area of water had been exhausted, because the birds and whales seemed to disperse and moved off into the distance. The Sea Lion did the same and resumed her course towards Isla Rasa in hopes of closer looks at this well-known bird rookery.
A brief interlude was held inside, while Sharon gave a talk on the Seri, indigenous people of the desert and sea who call an area of the midriff of the Gulf of California their home. As the shades were lifted, the sun was approaching the mountains of the peninsula, and a lovely sunset was in the making. We all returned to the bow as the Sea Lion approached Isla Rasa. Already we could hear the sound of thousands of Heerman's gulls and terns endlessly circling this tiny nesting sight. Our ship began a slow turn around the island watching the mating dances of terns and the clouds of Heerman's gulls lifting off and returning to Isla Rasa. As the sun dipped down for the last blast of light for the day, Bottlenose dolphins were spotted heading for the Sea Lion. Tropical punch and dark rum were being served on the bow, as the light shifted from bright yellows and stark blues to soft pinks, red-oranges and purples> It was a "whale of a day," to quote Steve our expedition leader! And what would tomorrow bring? The Sea Lion was anchored for a quiet evening, while storm petrels cruised around the vessel only providing more intrigue into this enormously rich ecosystem called the Gulf of California.
Sunrise found the Sea Lion 160 miles north of her previous evening's anchorage. We were heading for our morning destination of San Francisquito, a point on the mainland of the Baja peninsula. We had plans for walks in the desert, kayaking, beach combing, and swimming. It was a gloriously warm day and hopes were high for new sightings on land, and for those exploring the waters close to the shoreline. Once the Zodiacs were launched, hikers were taken ashore, where birders, desert explorers, and independent walkers all dispersed in various directions. Meanwhile kayaks had been brought ashore, and shortly there after those interested in kayaking at this convenient low tide headed out, lead by Erika, who described much of what was visible on the exposed rocks.
A small group of us were exploring the tidal area close to shore, looking for any unusual colors, movements and shapes! Low and behold, a very curious octopus peeked out from under a large cluster of algae. Looking up, very tentatively this 15 inch long octopus gazed at a group of five sets of legs standing in the water….not moving…..slowly the octopus pulled out, decided those five sets of legs were mildly interesting and safe to travel past. We all watched as this gorgeous cephalopod undulated gracefully past, casting a wary glance at the obvious intruders to this unique intertidal area. Hikers on shore were busy discovering snakes, lizards, land birds and the heat that the desert can indeed produce, even at this early hour of the day! Several hikers descended into the water as if they were wilted flowers, stopping short at knee level, as the water temperature was quite cool. Though, some hardy souls did manage a quick plunge!
Soon Zodiacs began shuttling hikers, kayakers and beach explorers back to the Sea Lion. The crew prepared the vessel for extended movement north heading for the bird colony of Isla Rasa. Conditions were excellent for finding marine mammals, and the natural history staff was on the bow watching in all directions. Suddenly a hysterical announcement came from just that location. It was Steve our expedition leader, screaming, "THERE IS A WHALE BREACHING FIFTY FEET OFF THE BOW OF THE SHIP!" The crowd trying to make its way up the stairs from the main lounge and dining room was amazing….in just two minutes nearly the entire compliment of the ship was present on the bow watching the end of four breaches made by a small Minke whale. The Sea Lion continued staying in close proximity to this whale for the next forty minutes or so and then we decided to move towards what appeared to be a few blows seen in the distance. The blows were spotted in the midst of a large group of feeding birds. As the ship approached several of us gazed over the bow and saw that the water was a veritable soup of living creatures representing nearly the entire food chain. Small zooplankton munched on the photosynthesizing phytoplankton and in turn fell prey to swirling euphausiids and mysids. These, in their turn, were snapped up by small fish who then disappeared into the buccal cavities of giant squid that careened next to the side of our ship. Although squid provide sustenance for some whales, the fin whales that provided the show today were mostly feeding on the smaller shrimp-like krill that clouded the water surface with their swarms of millions. These smaller creatures were also being snatched by birds in flight and on the waters surface…and as that same water began to boil the birds took flight as these white-right chinned marine mammals surfaced mouths agape, continuing their surface feeding. They moved back and forth through the water taking in enormous amounts of water and krill, filling their bellies with food and occasionally leaving a reddish stain on the surface behind them as a reminder of their presence, just before descending below the water and out of sight. The bow of the Sea Lion was filled with enthusiastic observers, keeping track of the movement of these whales as they rose to the surface on their sides with ventral pleats completely extended, white chins visible, and often the entire length of the whale moved right across the bow of the ship!
Soon it seemed this massive feeding frenzy was finished, or may be just this small area of water had been exhausted, because the birds and whales seemed to disperse and moved off into the distance. The Sea Lion did the same and resumed her course towards Isla Rasa in hopes of closer looks at this well-known bird rookery.
A brief interlude was held inside, while Sharon gave a talk on the Seri, indigenous people of the desert and sea who call an area of the midriff of the Gulf of California their home. As the shades were lifted, the sun was approaching the mountains of the peninsula, and a lovely sunset was in the making. We all returned to the bow as the Sea Lion approached Isla Rasa. Already we could hear the sound of thousands of Heerman's gulls and terns endlessly circling this tiny nesting sight. Our ship began a slow turn around the island watching the mating dances of terns and the clouds of Heerman's gulls lifting off and returning to Isla Rasa. As the sun dipped down for the last blast of light for the day, Bottlenose dolphins were spotted heading for the Sea Lion. Tropical punch and dark rum were being served on the bow, as the light shifted from bright yellows and stark blues to soft pinks, red-oranges and purples> It was a "whale of a day," to quote Steve our expedition leader! And what would tomorrow bring? The Sea Lion was anchored for a quiet evening, while storm petrels cruised around the vessel only providing more intrigue into this enormously rich ecosystem called the Gulf of California.
