The world was still as bright as a new penny early this morning. The Sea Lion was positioned just off of Punta San Gabriel at the south end of Canal de Salsipuedes as the sun rose over Isla San Pedro Martir. We were heading north towards the Canal de las Ballenas between the Baja peninsula and Isla Angel de la Guardia. A whale blow had been spotted, and we were casually watching and following the action of this whale as we cruised north towards our day’s destination. The channel we were cruising in is part of enormous geologic action that began to form much of this area some five to six million years ago. The Pacific plate, part of the earth's mantle, began moving northwest creating tremendous pressure on the North American plate. The block faulting that occurred caused deep channels to form from continental stresses which opened up into crevices, some at least 3,000 feet in depth. The faults in the area the Sea Lion found herself this morning, are no longer active. This geologic activity has moved eastward into the Gulf of California, where geologic activity continues to this day. Though, for many of us who watched the morning shadows change on the mountains of Isla Angel de la Guardia, the reality of violent geologic action and intense erosion remained constant on our minds. We scanned the northern end of this unusual island as we began a slow approach towards a northern bay called Puerto Refugio. The Sea Lion passed by Sail Rock; a huge sail shaped rock just outside the entrance to Puerto Refugio. Not only was it coated with an enormous layer of guano, but the depositors were also present!!! Blue-footed boobies, Brown boobies, pelicans, cormorants, Yellow-footed gulls and Red-billed tropic birds….all assuming the perch-pose, then gliding out across the water, only to return to roost on a very well established and thick layer of guano. Again and again we watched as these many different species flew out across the water and returned to the sail-shaped pinnacle; they're staked out home near Puerto Refugio. The Sea Lion was on approach to a narrow opening that would allow entry into a safe harbor, well known by fishermen in the area. Refuge Bay as it is translated from Spanish to English, is a safe harbor in any wind, and the place where we would drop our anchor and spend the afternoon cruising, hiking and kayaking.
The first opportunity of the day would by extended Zodiac cruises throughout this large bay looking at many of the inhabitants who also use these protected waters as a refuge. As we moved out across the large bay we stopped at yet another guano decorated rock resembling the Sidney Opera House. Slowly we moved in for a closer viewing of the many inhabitants. Immediately we were serenaded by the sound of baby birds coming from a well-hidden nest in the rocks! Sally light foot crabs scuttled out for a quick look pincers at alert and Yellow-footed gulls kept a watchful eye on the intruders born by this large black rubber object. The algae, the jelly fish, the smaller fish and snails were all discussed before Zodiacs moved on, following the auditory enticement just across the bay… was that California sea lions? Many Zodiacs approached the far-protected end of Pureto Refugio, causing the serenade of barks to become quite loud. Our sense of smell soon began twitching, along with our noses, as the smell of birds and sea lions reached within our limited olfactory range. Many sea lions entered the water and began porpoising in and around the Zodiacs. There is nothing more fun that weaving back and forth by Zodiac in front of a California sea lion haul-out area and watching those very cute animals watching us! Our cruises continued on with the sentries of the bay the Brown Pelicans that decorated many a rock, and closer looks found surf birds everywhere! These birds were also very vocal, peeping to each other, while keeping a watchful eye on the observers watching them.
Slowly everyone returned to the Sea Lion and prepared for our next set of activities. We would be able to take a quieter look within this protected bay by kayak, and also explore the land with a variety of hikes. Some walks would go for the fabulous view at the top of a ridge just behind the bay, while others would explore the grounds just at the base of the hill where a wonderfully unusual grouping of plants awaited our inspection. The true elephant tree with its peeling bark and drought deciduous growing pattern awaited, not to mention thousands of tiny amaranths brought by the small amount of rain that sometimes quenches this extremely parched landscape. The shadows grew long, as the sun rapidly made its way to the edge of the northeast mountains surrounding Puerto Refugio. The Elephant trees with whitish bark, and long spidery shadows fell upon the stark but multicolored rocks that make up this moonlike landscape, signaling time for departure.
Just slightly south the reaches of the Gulf of California were calling to us….was it the sound of whales drawing us? Or maybe another very unusual outcropping of rock jutting out of the sea attracting migrating inhabitants with a safe place for mating, nesting and feeding. We anxiously awaited the first light of day, to scan the horizon and pull into view yet another geologic sculpture, bringing it closer to see and understand the next great enticing assault to all of our senses!
