From the Sea of Cortez

Dawn on the Sea of Cortez on December 25, 2002 was bright, warm and full of promise. Before us the islets of Los Islotes rose out of the water like Sedona-red gingerbread dough. The volcanic tuff or ash which was baked in the cauldrons of ancient volcanoes and violently thrown through the air, is now stacked in layers that have been iced with bird guano. For those of us who celebrate Christmas it was quite a location to open our presents and for others, an equally delightful place to open our eyes.

After yummy pancakes most of us are going snorkeling. The water is clear, emerald and very inviting. From the shore, mountains of eager juvenile California Sea Lions leap into the watery void, barking and gurgling with delight. They anticipate our arrival and can’t wait for us to join them. This rookery has approximately 200 individuals; enormous males bask proudly and speak their mind with lordly, guttural growls while holding court on their favorite rocky throne. Moms and six-month-old pups line the shore. The water is full of ‘teenagers’ and they perform leaps and rolls and splash us on the Zodiacs as we get ready to enter their domain.

From one of our patrolling Zodiacs our video chronicler, Ron Lakis, performs his magic as he documents our swim. Neil Folsom, our seasoned Expedition Leader, pirouettes his boat for that ‘perfect angle.’ The air is teeming with birds. Brown and Blue-footed Boobies, Frigatebirds, Yellow-footed Gulls, ‘the’ endemic gull of the Sea of Cortez, and high above a Peregrine Falcon soars - no matter where we look life is good. In the water our guests shriek and squeal with delight; frolicking sea lions leap, dart, spin and redefine fun.

In the afternoon we choose between kayaking, swimming, walking the beach or a nature walk with one of the naturalists. We’re now on Espiritu Santo Island, part of a newly created biosphere reserve. The Mexican government and the World Wildlife Fund have joined in concert to protect this particular unusual habitat. Both the Black Jackrabbit and Antelope Ground squirrel, considered endemics by some authorities, are present in small numbers. Some of the hikers spot two of the rare jackrabbits. The day was fun, has fulfilled our aspirations and stimulated our intellect. Viva Baja!