In the Sea of Cortez

By the time we awoke from our first night plying north on the Sea of Cortez, our expedition already had the feel of adventure. An orange sun rose into clear blue skies and moderate winds as the Sea Lion headed into 4 to 6 foot swells. After a brief stop in the lee side of Isla Monserrate for breakfast, we cruised to Isla Carmen. Our morning passage was rewarded with the expedition’s first sighting of magnificent Bryde’s whales. We watched two of these little-known tropical whales, what appeared to be a mother with a large calf.

Our goal for an afternoon hike on Isla Carmen was Arroyo Rojo. As we approached the shore just after lunch, a large group of bottlenose dolphins suddenly appeared in the waves. They made for the boat and soon were all around us, about 25 to 40 of them. It was almost as though they were coming out to greet us. On the boat we gasped with pleasure at their antics. Several rode the bow waves of the boat with quick grace. Others leapt and twisted from the water, perhaps a technique for capturing fish. Still others surfed on white-capped waves, seemingly the images of dolphin joy and dolphin play. For about forty-five minutes we reveled in the sight of the reveling dolphins.

Once on shore at Isla Carmen, we began our introduction to the compelling botany and geology of these wonderful islands in a desert sea. Recent rains had made the arroyo green with life. A delicate daisy-like plant with exquisite pink flowers (Hofmeisteria) competed with the heart-shaped leaves of wild cotton, the wonderfully fragrant bursera tree, and much more, for our attention as we hiked. As the afternoon waned, we gathered again at the beach. Anchored just off shore, the soft light of the low sun gave the Sea Lion a warm glow against the brilliant blue of the sea. Clambering into the Zodiacs, we returned to the ship, which is now our home while we explore the magic of Baja California.