Los Islotes and Isla Espiritu Santo, Gulf of California, Mexico
A brilliant red sunrise greeted those on deck this morning. Wispy clouds on the eastern horizon magnified peach, orange and vermillion colours. A sliver of the diminishing moon added accent.
We approached the snow-white rocks of Los Islotes, a tiny blip in this huge sea, plastered white by the accumulation of thousands of years of seabird guano. Blue-footed boobies, brown boobies, brown pelicans, yellow-footed gulls, turkey vultures and even unseen least storm-petrels have added their marks to the otherwise ochre-brown rock. Formed by innumerable volcanic eruptions, these hardened outcrops withstand the weathering of salt winds and crashing waves. Two peregrine falcons perched high on the navigation light tower, ready at an instant to thrust after a wayward songbird or shorebird.
Greeting us vocally were hundreds of California sea lions, barking as they squabbled over a prime piece of rock on which they could dry their bodies and warm in the morning sun. Preferring to be in touch with each other – packed like sausages side-by side - growling and barking would erupt as one decided it was time to return to the cool water.
Zodiac rides around this small islet gave us a much better appreciation of the size and social nature of sea loins. Breeding and serious male aggression will begin in May, at which time pregnant females will arrive to give birth. While nursing a newborn, these females will come into estrous again and will be bred by massive bulls, each weighing 800 pounds or more. Perfect timing! Everyone arrives at the same time of year, the pups are born, breeding takes place and all return one year later. The gestation period would appear to be one year, but through a process of delayed implantation – a delay of three months in this case - the actual gestation is about nine months.
Our day was only beginning. Wetsuits on, we were soon into the water with the sea lions and realizing just how inept we are in water compared to these sleek creatures. They swam rings around us! Later and also swimming rings around our ship was a massive school of common dolphins – adults and tiny calves – feeding along the east side of Isla Espiritu Santo. What a sight as they flashed to our bow and enjoyed a free ride in the clear water.
As we continued southward toward Bahia Bonanza, sunshine and clear skies continued and the winds eased. A spectacular morning extended into a perfect afternoon. Swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, walking among desiccated plants, or strolling for miles on a pristine sandy beach; these were our choices. Some chose all of them. On the final day of our desert adventure, we wanted to register every possible experience.
A brilliant red sunrise greeted those on deck this morning. Wispy clouds on the eastern horizon magnified peach, orange and vermillion colours. A sliver of the diminishing moon added accent.
We approached the snow-white rocks of Los Islotes, a tiny blip in this huge sea, plastered white by the accumulation of thousands of years of seabird guano. Blue-footed boobies, brown boobies, brown pelicans, yellow-footed gulls, turkey vultures and even unseen least storm-petrels have added their marks to the otherwise ochre-brown rock. Formed by innumerable volcanic eruptions, these hardened outcrops withstand the weathering of salt winds and crashing waves. Two peregrine falcons perched high on the navigation light tower, ready at an instant to thrust after a wayward songbird or shorebird.
Greeting us vocally were hundreds of California sea lions, barking as they squabbled over a prime piece of rock on which they could dry their bodies and warm in the morning sun. Preferring to be in touch with each other – packed like sausages side-by side - growling and barking would erupt as one decided it was time to return to the cool water.
Zodiac rides around this small islet gave us a much better appreciation of the size and social nature of sea loins. Breeding and serious male aggression will begin in May, at which time pregnant females will arrive to give birth. While nursing a newborn, these females will come into estrous again and will be bred by massive bulls, each weighing 800 pounds or more. Perfect timing! Everyone arrives at the same time of year, the pups are born, breeding takes place and all return one year later. The gestation period would appear to be one year, but through a process of delayed implantation – a delay of three months in this case - the actual gestation is about nine months.
Our day was only beginning. Wetsuits on, we were soon into the water with the sea lions and realizing just how inept we are in water compared to these sleek creatures. They swam rings around us! Later and also swimming rings around our ship was a massive school of common dolphins – adults and tiny calves – feeding along the east side of Isla Espiritu Santo. What a sight as they flashed to our bow and enjoyed a free ride in the clear water.
As we continued southward toward Bahia Bonanza, sunshine and clear skies continued and the winds eased. A spectacular morning extended into a perfect afternoon. Swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, walking among desiccated plants, or strolling for miles on a pristine sandy beach; these were our choices. Some chose all of them. On the final day of our desert adventure, we wanted to register every possible experience.
