Los Islotes, Bahia Bonanza, Isla Espiritu Santo

Daybreak found the Sea Lion sitting at anchor in calm seas. The five-day storm, with winds exceeding 35 knots had ended. It was a delight to wake up to a slight roll and very light airs. Our morning plan was to visit Los Islotes; the most southern California sea lion rookery in the Gulf of California. Once breakfast was finished preparations were made to move out of our protected anchorage in Ensenada Grande, head into the residual swell left over from the storm, and cruise slowly north, to a tiny group of islands appropriately named Los Islotes. The Captain anchored the Sea Lion in the lee of this small group of islets and Zodiacs were immediately dropped for our morning use. Touring in these easily maneuvered boats provided our first close look at Los Islotes and its varied population. Along with California sea lions a good-sized population of birds also called this small and protected piece of rock home. Brown boobies, blue-footed boobies, Brown pelicans, Magnificent frigates, an occasional Peregrine falcon and its mate, and a collection of turkey vultures all find what is necessary to live and thrive at Los Islotes. Though, it was the California Sea lions that were the stars! Lounging, sleeping, squabbling, diving, and playing a variety of males and females were spending their first day without storm waves enjoying the life of sea lions. These animals belong to a group of marine mammals called pinnipeds (fin feet) and are different from seals in having earflaps, a sharper nose and the ability to “walk” using their four extremities, one of the traits that make them so much fun to watch. As our Zodiacs moved slowly along the steep walls of Los Islotes, several sea lions positioned themselves for spectacular dives in the water. Our cameras poised, image after image captured this wonderful and close view of California sea lions in their rookery. If that was not close enough, snorkeling with these same animals was our next morning’s activity. Once the snorkeling boat was anchored, several shuttles of intrepid snorkelers dawned their wet suits, flippers, snorkels and masks and entered the watery world of the California sea lion. Several large females with their pups curiously circled around the funny looking guests entering their world. Many of us assumed as quiet a pose in water as we could and watched several groups of sea lions gracefully cavorting with each other, with an occasional pass in our direction.

All too soon, snorkelers, Zodiacs and all gear headed back to the Sea Lion. The seas had continued to stay calm, and we would be able to visit another famous beach on Isla Espiritu Santo. As soon as the anchor was lifted we headed south down the east side of the island. At the lower southeast corner, a three mile white sand beach named Bahia Bonanza called out for an afternoon visit. Kayaks were brought ashore and several rounds were offered to all of us who wanted a peaceful paddle along the rocky northern shore of the beach. A solitary walk along this peaceful beach was a must for some, while several small groups headed back into the desert landscape to find what treasures were offered up. A tiny hummingbird nest with two eggs, the asparagus flowering stalk of an agave, Indigo bush in flower, antelope squirrels and the footprints of the Black jackrabbit, all gifts of the desert to the observant eyes of those of us moving slowly up the arroyo.

Back on the beach our Hotel manager Bill Hendricks and his staff had organized an evening barbeque. As dinner was being served on a long buffet table, Brown pelicans dove for their supper in the last light of the day. The sun was setting behind the mountains of Isla Espiritu Santo, leaving bright pink and deep oranges in the deep blue of an early evening sky.