Hells Canyon

Today those of us who are early risers awoke to a sky full of stars, Orion clearly visible on the starboard side, the Big Dipper on the larboard. The Sea Lion, behind schedule due to strong east winds, like those Lewis and Clark experienced on the same stretch of river on nearly the same day, powered up Lake Wallula toward the confluence of the Clearwater with the Snake.

After breakfast, we arranged to have the power boats meet us near Silcot Island (8 miles below Clarkston, WA) to facilitate the day’s full schedule. Loading from the fantail, we boarded two aluminum jetboats, roared through Lewiston-Clarkston, and soon ran out of reservoir as basaltic canyon walls rose on both sides of us: we entered Hells Canyon, often advertised as the deepest river-cut canyon on the continent.

We saw rafts of ducks and geese, great blue herons on nearly every gravel bar, flocks of rock doves, black and white magpies, and bright blue kingfishers. Numerous steelhead fishermen in hip waders and dories, powerboats and inflatable rafts plied the clear green waters for what Lewis and Clark had called “salmon trout.” We flashed past autumn-hued cottonwoods and willows, sumac and poison ivy; Russian olive and hackberry unaffected by October’s cooler temperatures; and towering rocks decorated with petroglyphs, lichen, and relics of mining days.

Above the mouth of the Imnaha we stopped for lunch on a sandbar, half-sun and half-shade, listened to the sad story of the Nez Perce Exodus, then jetted back to the Sea Lion docked in Clarkston opposite the mouth of the Clearwater. After a brief rest, we bussed to the Nez Perce National Historic Park a few miles east of our dock to enjoy the displays and participate in a discussion led by a Nez Perce National Park Service ranger. Our busy day ended with a sumptuous “supper” on board our floating home.