Columbia Gorge

Morning sunshine on the golden hillsides and some wispy clouds in the distance greeted us this morning as we approached the eastern end of the Columbia Gorge. Mt. Hood, newly covered in fresh snow, was being coy behind towering clouds off in the distance. We were approaching The Dalles, or Les Dalles as the French fur trappers called it. The rapids here in the Columbia reminded them of the tiles or gutters on their homes. Just above the Dalles Dam the Sea Lion pulled close to the Washington shore for a glimpse of a famous Indian petroglyph of Tsagaglalal, or “She Who Watches”. Scratched into the basalt face of a huge rock and stained with red ochre, the smiling face did indeed seem to watch us as we sailed past.

Going ashore after breakfast, we were driven in a comfortable bus to the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center here in The Dalles. Like children, we enjoyed the myriad interactive displays and exhibits of this excellent interpretive center. Here we experienced the courage of the pioneer families, the early steamboats on the Columbia, the Indian culture of the mid-Columbia and early settlers along the river.

Leaving the museum, we drove west over a portion of the fabled Columbia River Scenic Highway with gentle curves snaking up the basalt bluffs to Rowena Crest, about 700 feet above the river. Here our cameras captured a panoramic view looking eastward up the Columbia River, which we had just sailed down. Across the river on the Washington side, several fishing boats dotted the water near the small town of Lyle. Onward again driving through the Oak and Ponderosa Pine woods we continued west past cherry and apricot orchards to the small town of Mosier. Here we were able to stretch our legs with a good hours walk or bike ride up the paved road of newly restored portion of the Columbia River Highway. Many of us walked or rode up to the Mosier Twin Tunnels, which offered lovely views of the river below.

After lunch on board the Sea Lion, the ship headed downstream towards Cascade Locks, a small town clinging to the Oregon side of the Gorge. The arching metal “Bridge of the Gods” connects by modern highway what a huge earthen rockslide connected thousands of years ago – a natural bridge between the north and south sides of this magnificent river. The Sea Lion berthed in the old lock slip at Cascade Locks where seventy years ago sternwheelers tied up with their passengers from Portland, out on a day’s excursion. Boarding our buses again, we were soon on another portion of the Scenic Highway headed west towards Multnomah Falls. This huge falls, leaping over the cliffs from 620 feet above us, is administered by the U.S. Forest Service and annually hosts over 2 million visitors. Today, the Big Leaf Maple trees cast a lovely yellow glow over the lush woods as a light rain fell. Many of us walked up to the small bridge between the upper and lower falls where a fine mist from the plunge pool bathed our faces. Returning to our ship after a full day on “The Big River”, or as the Indians called the Columbia, “Nch I Wana”, we are more aware than ever of the bounty and enjoyment of such a stream that encompasses us all, past and present.