Manatee River, Belize

We started our day with a trip up one of a series of rivers that drain the Maya Mountains. The river is named the Manatee River, so naturally our hopes were high of seeing one of these strange beasts.

Zodiacs and kayaks formed a flotilla that eventually spread out over a considerable stretch of water. The river is bounded by mangroves, and we admired the glossy leaves and leggy prop roots of these unusual trees. Kingfishers, of species mighty and miniature, eyed us warily, then undulated away. Flycatchers rose and fell in pursuit of tasty bugs.

But best of all, nearly everyone saw manatees. Manatees are interesting though, one would have to admit, not particularly attractive mammals. They look like a cross between a killerwhale and a well-boiled hotdog, and early sailors must have imagined them to be mermaids only after a very, very long voyage. Still, considering the unpredictability of wildlife, we were grateful to see their snuffly noses drawing quick breaths, and, occasionally, their powerful spatulate tails as they dove to take another mouthful of turtle grass.

In the afternoon, we motored to Goff Caye. This speck of land is one’s very fantasy of a tropical isle, with snow-white sand, a few waving palms, and a thatched shelter for shade. Snorkeling was great. Brightly colored fish dashed or moseyed over coral sculpture. A colossal cruise ship lumbered by in the distance, reminding us of just how intimate and rare our experience was. And then, of course, the perfect sunset. A fitting end to a marvelous day!