Corcovado National Park
Morning dawned with clouds hovering over the moist slopes of Corcovado National Park on our starboard side, and crashing breakers covered the rough rocks off shore. Our expert Zodiac drivers, the best in the business because they were born and bred in the neighborhood, took us to the beach named San Pedrillo, park headquarters, where we split into groups and dove into the tropical rainforest along various trails along ridges, alongside streams and into pools, or through the lowlands paralleling the coastline. No matter which direction was taken, or the pace chosen, we saw, heard, felt, smelt abundant greenery and wildlife.
Both overhead and at ground level, patience paid off. I went with several of our guests along the level trail, where we dallied in the quiet forest, listening and watching for whatever might come within sight or sound. Howler monkeys started calling out vocally almost immediately, though we didn’t get a glimpse of them, and instead watched the erratic flight of a bright blue Morpho butterfly. Spider monkeys gave away their location in the high canopy by moving around and causing branches to shake and quiver as they brachiated along, stopping occasionally to forage while hanging by their long tails, arms or legs. We decided as a group to go just a tad further before starting our return, and the payoff was stupendous. Someone spotted an elongated brown form descending a tree trunk, and soon enough three more forms followed close behind. Four coatis, a raccoon relative, began foraging on the ground nearby for land crabs. They snuffled under the dry leaves and small branches were scuffed to the side. A hole discovered was a hole investigated by long noses with a keen sense of smell. We knew when a potential meal was located by the immediate vigorous digging and zealous determination to get down to the resident. Sure enough and soon enough a crab would be brought out and crunched down with a seemingly smacking of lips. What was impressive was that we discovered that more than one crab might inhabit a single hole…a bonanza for the individual, and defended with growls and a short chase if another should attempt to partake of their private discovery. We were thrilled that despite our gawking presence, the four coatis continued their search for crab morsels just a few feet away from us, and finally even crossed the path to visit the other side as well (crabs are always better on the other side). Obviously they are well habituated to people in this park, where they have not been harassed or hunted by humans for many coati generations. It was such an amazing experience; we all stayed silent and watched for a long time, listening to the shuffling, scratching and crunching of wild creatures. It was truly “awesome” to have been allowed to watch for so long and not be considered a threat, a rare treat in this day and age. The afternoon had us horseback riding, walking or lounging after a barbecue lunch prepared on shore by the galley and hotel crew of the Sea Voyager, and ended with a delicious swim before the sunset. Couldn’t have asked for a better combination.
Morning dawned with clouds hovering over the moist slopes of Corcovado National Park on our starboard side, and crashing breakers covered the rough rocks off shore. Our expert Zodiac drivers, the best in the business because they were born and bred in the neighborhood, took us to the beach named San Pedrillo, park headquarters, where we split into groups and dove into the tropical rainforest along various trails along ridges, alongside streams and into pools, or through the lowlands paralleling the coastline. No matter which direction was taken, or the pace chosen, we saw, heard, felt, smelt abundant greenery and wildlife.
Both overhead and at ground level, patience paid off. I went with several of our guests along the level trail, where we dallied in the quiet forest, listening and watching for whatever might come within sight or sound. Howler monkeys started calling out vocally almost immediately, though we didn’t get a glimpse of them, and instead watched the erratic flight of a bright blue Morpho butterfly. Spider monkeys gave away their location in the high canopy by moving around and causing branches to shake and quiver as they brachiated along, stopping occasionally to forage while hanging by their long tails, arms or legs. We decided as a group to go just a tad further before starting our return, and the payoff was stupendous. Someone spotted an elongated brown form descending a tree trunk, and soon enough three more forms followed close behind. Four coatis, a raccoon relative, began foraging on the ground nearby for land crabs. They snuffled under the dry leaves and small branches were scuffed to the side. A hole discovered was a hole investigated by long noses with a keen sense of smell. We knew when a potential meal was located by the immediate vigorous digging and zealous determination to get down to the resident. Sure enough and soon enough a crab would be brought out and crunched down with a seemingly smacking of lips. What was impressive was that we discovered that more than one crab might inhabit a single hole…a bonanza for the individual, and defended with growls and a short chase if another should attempt to partake of their private discovery. We were thrilled that despite our gawking presence, the four coatis continued their search for crab morsels just a few feet away from us, and finally even crossed the path to visit the other side as well (crabs are always better on the other side). Obviously they are well habituated to people in this park, where they have not been harassed or hunted by humans for many coati generations. It was such an amazing experience; we all stayed silent and watched for a long time, listening to the shuffling, scratching and crunching of wild creatures. It was truly “awesome” to have been allowed to watch for so long and not be considered a threat, a rare treat in this day and age. The afternoon had us horseback riding, walking or lounging after a barbecue lunch prepared on shore by the galley and hotel crew of the Sea Voyager, and ended with a delicious swim before the sunset. Couldn’t have asked for a better combination.
