Islas Murcielagos, Costa Rica

The morning was a relaxed one. Immigration had checked us through into the country, our third and last for this voyage, Costa Rica. Breakfast was followed by a snorkeling briefing and everyone was soon ready to head to the sandy beach for a variety of activities: should they hike? Snorkel? Kayak? Swim? Everything was possible, and after our last two days of full-out exploring the cultures and volcanoes of Nicaragua, a laid-back day on the water on a Costa Rican islet in the Pacific was perfect.

Hikers climbed the steep, grassy slopes of the main island along a path that followed a ridge…and down below lay the Sea Voyager at anchor on one side, in deep blue waters facing a rocky coast of tumbled boulders and dramatic arches, and on the other a protected bay of clear, shallow blue-green sea, where all of us played in the surf.

The snorkelers, both novice and experienced, saw reef cornetfish changing colors, king and Cortez angelfish, butterflyfish, pufferfish, and many more. The underwater camera caught some of these (as well as ourselves) on film, for later viewing in the lounge. Kayakers paddled calmly, and sun-warmed. We finally returned to the ship to continue on our way to the peninsula of Santa Elena, and a small bay on it’s northern coast by the same name.

Out of the blue, and right on time (I wish I could take credit), we spotted some marine mammals directly ahead…what were they? Curiosity consumed us, and time was ours. For the next hour we followed (or were they following us?) a group of about 20 false killer whales that breached ahead, dove below, and in general captivated us entirely, and had many of us on the bow running from side to side, squealing in excitement. Apparently they thought us a good source of entertainment also, for they in turn were squealing among each other loud enough for us to hear them clearly above water. They came, they left, they returned, we followed…not enough adjectives can be found to describe our emotions and excitement…as we looked down into their blowholes at times!

As if that wasn’t enough, when we pulled into Bahia Santa Elena, after dropping the Zodiacs and disembarking the snorkelers…spotted dolphins appeared out of nowhere, and bow-rode the Zodiacs. Paula even managed to get a few seconds of underwater footage of them as they played in front of the bow.

The ship finally anchored and kayaks were lowered and taken, and swimming off the stern platform was also offered. Just when cocktails on the sundeck were offered, the dolphins showed up inside the bay in time for the kayakers to paddle over and have the experience of their lives…adults and juvenile dolphins cavorted (that’s the only word possible) around the kayaks. The kayakers finally started heading in towards the ship, and the dolphins followed, which allowed those of us on board to jump in and swim out…not to see them, but to partake audibly in their presence…squeaks and clicks could be heard when our ears went below water. The Zodiac riders pulled in later, as dusk settled in, after cruising the mangrove shoreline of magical Bahia Santa Elena.

Could we have planned such a day? No. But to enjoy and know how to appreciate what comes our way…definitely, yes.