Glacier Bay

One of the most glorious places in the world is Glacier Bay when the sun rises into a clear blue sky and stays all day. It can be even better when the sun occupies a partly cloudy sky and there are wisps of mist wrapped around the mountainsides. Thus is created a marvelous interplay of sun and shadows that weaves a tapestry of visual delight on the rocks, sea, and ice that make up the landscape of this extraordinary locality. This is how we discovered Glacier Bay in the morning when we arrived at the formidable face of the Johns Hopkins glacier.

As we watched, several chunks of ice the size of boxcars calved off into the fjord with a thunderous roar that the native people called “sumdum” (white thunder). But there is far more to Glacier Bay than glaciers. Nearby were hundreds of harbor seals drifting on icebergs—a small remnant of the more than 4000 animals that were here for pupping season in June. Cruising into observe the Margerie glacier we saw thousands of nesting kittiwakes, great linear rafts of molting surf scoters, and numerous horned and tufted puffins that were a continuing source of amusement.

Heading back down the Bay, the chosen few diligently doing duty on the front deck got to see the very brief appearance of a foraging brown bear. Everyone got to see mountain goats! More than 40 were spotted during our journey.

South Marble Island provided gratification for both marine mammal and bird observers. Our first encounter was a view of about a hundred Stellar sea lions. These were all males of varying size and age that had been rejected on the breeding grounds of the outer coast. They showed their dismay by yips, barks and an almost continuous low rumbling sound that was uncannily like a Harley Davidson engine. After the sea lions came the stratified birds—vertical layers of kittiwakes, commorants, puffins and gulls on the rocks.

At the end of the day we arrived at Bartlett Cove where we dropped off our most excellent ranger du jour, Marylou Blakelee. We then dispersed to engage in various activities—hiking, running, the Ranger show, or just contemplating what wonders tomorrow will bring.