Charcon River and Dog Island, Kuna Yala

After a good night’s sleep, we met the morning still in Kuna Yala or the San Blas islands, just outside the Charcon River on the eastern side of continental Panama or the Gulf of San Blas. We were ready to get on our Zodiacs for an early morning ride up the river, but we were not the only early risers, the Kuna rush hour was at hand. Many of the Kunas who live on the islands take their dugout canoes, some with outside motors, others only with sails, to the mainland. Many of them have small plots of land to cultivate corn, bananas and plantains, and to do some survival hunting. At least 14 of their sturdy canoes crossed our path as we headed to the river’s mouth.

Once in the river, we were engulfed by the mangrove trees, which help hold the soil from being washed away by the water’s eroding movement. The word mangrove is a generic name for trees and other plant, most of them of different families that can survive in brackish water. As the morning went on, we began hearing a large array of bird calls and songs: ringed kingfishers, collared aracaris, blue-gray tanager, greater anis, little blue herons, great egrets and plenty more. We went back on board for a late breakfast and repositioned the ship to another small island named Achutupo or Dog Island.

Just outside Dog Island, there is a sunken ship from about 50 years ago, through the years it has become home for many species of corals as well as many species of fish such as goatfish, trumpetfish, lizard fish, and even some reef shark. Our afternoon passed as we swam, snorkeled, bought some molar, or simply sat on the beach to feel the breeze.