Haida Gwaii, Queen Charlotte City, 5/17/2019, National Geographic Sea Bird
Aboard the
National Geographic Sea Bird
Alaska
“All acts must be done with respect and consent; make it right, and everything depends on everything else.”
This morning, we experienced these basic rules of Haida life at the Haida Heritage Center at Kay Llnagaay. Eagle led us on a discovery of the outdoor museum, where we first learned about the six poles representing each of six historic villages in the southern region of Haida Gwaii. The poles were erected in 2001 and accompanied by a day of celebration. We then viewed a sampling of the legendary Haida canoes, one of which was paddled down the River Seine in Paris. Raven then guided us through the magnificent indoor museum filled with important artifacts of the Haida culture. In the afternoon, several activities were available: classes in textile weaving, cedar weaving, and carving/formline design, plus a hike to Spirit Lake. Hidden artistic talents were discovered by many!
It was Malle and Cousteau’s The Silent World , viewed in a dusty meeting hall on a wintry day in central Wisconsin that forged Jim’s dream and commitment to become a marine biologist. Never mind that he was only 8 at the time and that it would be a...
Several orcas graced our presence as we woke up for our last morning in Canadian waters and waited to be granted entry into the United States. Three dorsal fins danced above the waterline, offering fleeting glances of the beautiful black and white giants hidden below. A charter vessel skillfully pulled alongside to bring customs and border protection officers onto National Geographic Sea Bird . They checked that all passports were present and correct before wishing us a safe passage. Many a day in Misty Fjords National Monument is indeed spent shrouded in mist, but we spent our day enjoying the beautiful sunshine that greeted us on the US side of the border. Heading up into Behm Canal, we passed by Eddystone Rock, a volcanic plug that had been launched and deposited in the middle of the strait–an oddity compared to the rocks on either side. As we navigated into narrower and narrower fjords, we increasingly appreciated our miniature size compared to the granitic cliffs towering above us. We made a brief stop in Punchbowl Cove and appreciated the sheer cliffs that were carved during the last glacial retreat. Our destination for the afternoon was the end of Rudyerd Bay, where the ship passed through Owl Pass to reveal a secluded bay for Zodiac tours and kayaking. Highlights in the bay included bald eagles, basking harbor seals, black-legged kittiwakes, pigeon guillemots, Barrow’s goldeneye, surf scoters, and harlequin ducks.
Fog mantled our morning, interspersed with dashes of blue sky and subdued flashes of sun. We awoke at the dock of Queen Charlotte City, our final Canadian port, where we briefly undertook preparations for the onward journey. Headed northward towards Alaska, our final views of Haida Gwaii receded into the distance as we sailed into Hecate Strait for a day at sea. Avian life entertained those on deck and at lounge windows, including some charismatic and less frequently seen species, such as rhinoceros auklets and sooty shearwaters. The morning and evening comprised a series of programs in the lounge, featuring cell phone photography, regional geology, and glaciology. The afternoon included some dramatic waves as we crossed the shallow waters of Hecate Strait, and some opted to experience the crossing from their beds.
National Geographic Sea Bird sailed through some relatively calm seas after a rough start yesterday. We left S’Gaang Gwaii after a wonderful day in the village. We made our way north to our anchor this morning, located just west of Skedans, near the base of Mt. Moresby. The partly cloudy-partly sunny day gave us glimpses of the almost 4,000 foot peak, covered in snow! Remember: that’s 4,000 feet right from sea at about 53 degrees north in early May. So, that’s early season, northern latitudes, and high elevation! Hence, the snow. After another hearty breakfast, guests prepared for an exploration by expedition landing craft or a walk on land towards Mosquito Lake. Both groups came back with stories of sightings of bears feeding on the shore, bird songs, and just a fun time exploring. After the first round of activity, guests who were on the shorter walk had the opportunity for an exploration by water. Folks coming off the water took the opportunity to explore on land. And one energized group spent the entire morning walking towards Mosquito Lake. Either and all ways, we had a wonderful time exploring this temperate rainforest. After yet another delectable lunch, we got everybody into the forward lounge to hear stories about history and culture from Haida Gwaii local Barbara Wilson. It is always an incredible gift to hear from people who have lived in an area and know the culture from personal experience. It is rare and very much appreciated. Barbara shared stories about her people, her culture, and their way of life. We had questions and engaged in lively conversation, eager to learn more. After some time with Barbara in the bow, we all headed out on deck for a bit of a wildlife extravaganza. We observed another black bear feeding in the intertidal zone, maybe 15 or more harbor seals hauled out on exposed rocks, and a black-tailed deer within 100 meters or so of the feeding black bear. While the deer was mindful of the bear, no interaction occurred. (At least not while we were watching!) We continued east to Cumshewa Village, Barbara’s home. The crew dropped a dib in the water for her to head to land to collect a flat rock. She explained this rock was collected to be delivered to a tribe on northern Vancouver Island. The rock will be incorporated into a mariculture project to help produce seafood for the tribe on the island. Therefore, this rock serves as a token to express her tribe’s commitment to food security for her people. Midway through her discussion about the mariculture project, another black bear was sighted feeding in the intertidal zone. Following an extensive question and answer session with Barbara, we went out to view a very cooperative bear for several minutes before sailing on. We sailed on to appetizers, recap, and another beautiful sunset following dinner. PHOTO: A beautiful patch of temperate rainforest on our morning walk near Mosquito Lake. Photo by David Jaffe.
