Inian Islands, 5/17/2019, National Geographic Sea Lion
Aboard the
National Geographic Sea Lion
Alaska
We woke to dense fog at our morning in the Hobbit Hole and made our way to the anchorage in South Inian Pass. This was followed by a briefing on protocols for navigating in dense fog, including GPS and operating the some of the expedition watercraft in pairs.
In South Inian Pass we stopped to pay our respects to the crew of the Vagabond Queen at the old graffiti wall and then proceeded into the swirling currents that guard this amazing haven for wildlife.
Jeff Campbell fell in love with the ocean while attending boatbuilding school in Eastport, Maine. Since completing his MS in Marine and Estuarine Science at Western Washington University, he has worked for NOAA documenting the ecological impacts of t...
After an evening cruising from SG̱ang Gwaay, National Geographic Sea Bird made one last stop this morning in Daajing Giids to drop off our cultural interpreters, DeeDee Crosby and Grace Garvie. At dock, we had two unique opportunities. The first, our daily morning stretch class had the opportunity to meet on land, and second, we welcomed the incredible artisan, Aay Aay, aboard. We were familiar with Aay Aay, who we had met two days prior as an interpreter at the Haida Heritage Center. His specialty is a revival of traditional Haida weaving. During Aay Aay’s time on board, he shared with us his personal story about discovering and mastering his art with spruce root, cedar, and wool weaving. He taught us how to hand spin the warp threads that would be the beginnings of a wool piece. After an artistic morning, we embarked on our journey across Hecate Strait to reach our next destination along our expedition, Alaska. This evening, I write as we make our way into Dixon Entrance preparing to wake up to the scenery of the famed Misty Fjords in the morning.
Today was filled with incredible experiences. SGang Gwaay is a strongly spiritual land full of important history and culture of the Haida people. The powerful story that unfolded on the island long ago is present on the shores and in the forest of SGang Gwaay. We were able to take a Zodiac cruise to view wildlife. Humpback whales blew spouts in the distance and bald eagles perched in the trees on the horizon. A highlight of our day was when the Haida watchmen led our group ashore to explain the mortuary poles and village. We are forever grateful to them for sharing this glimpse of their culture with us. It was a truly special day.
We awoke to a blanket of calm in the air. A thin fog, blueish light, placid water, and the sights of sleepy boats in the harbor were the archetypical backdrop for the beauty of Haida Gwaii. Our expedition took us off National Geographic Sea Bird to the Haida Heritage Center. Here we had the privilege to be guided through the museum to get a closer look at the art, livelihood, totem poles, and the beauty of the Haida way of life. What we witnessed gave us a small taste of the wonder the Haida have maintained for generations. The afternoon took us deeper into the island, to the rainforests in the interior. Our forest walks took us to the Spirit Lakes where we witnessed the splendor and deep biodiversity among old growth western red cedar and Sitka spruce. Today was both for land and sea, with our undersea team scuba diving at a nearby island and naturalists showing guests the invertebrate life up close that we had been sharing space with on the dock. As the day comes to close, I write from open waters as we make our way south to the island of SG̱ang Gwaay.
