Heimaey Island, 7/24/2021, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Arctic
In a whirl of basalt, waterfalls, lupine, sheep and puffins, we have explored but barely scratched the surface of what Iceland has to offer. Our time together aboard the National Geographic Explorer was all too short, but it has left a lasting impression and perhaps has planted a seed to return to this Land of Fire and Ice. One of our global explorers shared their impression with us in the form of a haiku.
Born in Cape Cod, Massachusetts, Linda and her Air Force family moved extensively throughout the U.S. when she was a child. Linda continues to travel and explore a broader spectrum of the world as a naturalist with Lindblad Expeditions-National Geogr...
During the early hours of the morning, the National Geographic Endurance sailed off the southwest coast of Iceland, heading towards the Westman islands. This archipelago is formed by fifteen main islands, but only one of them is inhabited with a population of more than 4,000 people. Our arrival was estimated for the late morning, so we spent our shipboard time attending presentations and even touring the unique art displayed throughout the ship. After circumnavigating Surtsey Island (one of the youngest islands on the planet), we made our dramatic entry to a bay once threatened by the volcanic explosion of Eldfell volcano in 1973. The narrow bay was the perfect excuse for the captain to show the capabilities and maneuverability of the National Geographic Endurance. With a powerful Azipod gearless 360° steerable propulsion system, the ship can rotate 180 degrees in only a matter of seconds and aim for a perfect docking experience! Once well fed by our hotel and galley crew, we set off to explore Eldfell volcano itself and various other key points of the Island. Although the geology of Heimaey was the highlight of the day, the cuteness of puffin chicks (known as pufflings) stole everyone’s attention when a few locals requested safe passage for several young birds to the open sea. It is this time of the year when pufflings are ready to head to sea. However, there are always a good number who get confused and end up inland, mistakenly attracted to the city lights. Locals of all ages set off with the task of finding these young birds to keep them safe until they find willing volunteers from ferries, tour ships, and fishing boats to take them to open waters to release them. We were delighted to be chosen for such a task, and once at sea, several pufflings were released under the cheerful voices of encouragement from our guests for the young birds to have a happy and healthy life, and for their safe return to these grounds five years from now!
When we imagine Iceland, land of fire and ice, we dream of glaciers, geothermal pools, volcanos, and waterfalls, perhaps with a smattering of Viking legend. Today we found all of this in abundance. Iceland has countless breathtakingly beautiful waterfalls, and at Borgarfjörður, the Hvita (“white”) river) emerges, spring-fed, from the lava field above, carving out bridges and stone arches at Barnafoss, and cascading down to the Hraunfossar waterfalls below, which stretch for almost 1 kilometer. After this, some of us went on to climb the Grábrók volcano, a dramatic cinder cone, which had erupted from a 600m long fissure about 3,200 years ago. We have spectacular views from the top into the crater. The old lava flows are red from oxidized iron. At Krauma, another group of us answered the call of the warm bubbling geothermal baths. Here a flow of water emerges naturally from a powerful hot spring at a temperature of 212°F and runs constantly through a series of pools at decreasing temperatures, to the delight of the happy bathers. A chillier experience awaited the rest at Langjökull (“long glacier”), the second largest glacier in Iceland. After crossing part of the glacier in a specially converted vehicle (formerly a NATO rocket-launcher!) fitted out with crampons, we left the bright Icelandic sunshine behind to explore 650 meters of man-made tunnels and caves within its icy depths. As a “temperate” glacier, Langjökull maintains a constant temperature of 32°F, but this extensive ice dome is shrinking rapidly. It’s forecasted to disappear completely in the next forty years or so.
Before breakfast began, we docked at the small port community of Grundarfjordur. The day was overcast with a fluffy cloud cover but not threatening rain. The wind was a slight light breeze – a promising morning for a hike along the coast to a waterfall. This picturesque spot was surrounded by a mountainous landscape inland but prominently on a peninsula was the isolated peak of Mount Kirkjufell. Those desiring a longer hike to stretch their legs left the ship first. Passing through the quiet streets of the village, the first groups then followed a very well-kept trail inland from the coast to the waterfall inland. Others wanting a somewhat shorter hike followed. From the ship, others chose to meander through the clean immaculate village and being a Sunday morning, there was very little evidence that any locals were moving about yet in the early hours of the day. The small but tall church steeple was prominently perched the highest point in the village. Seafood processing facilities lined the small port area, and a lone small trawler was the only fishing vessel sharing the port with the National Geographic Endurance. By mid-day, everyone had returned from their morning's exploration and the ship pulled away for the afternoon's destination. Following an afternoon presentation, the route of the ship had taken us to the very western end of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Jutting out to the west from the mainland, it was not surprising that the wind had caused the sea surface to have some whitecaps and choppy conditions. But most guests chose to brave the weather and boarded the Zodiacs. During the time in the Zodiacs, we were treated to a sudden and ephemeral rainbow as well as glimpses of the highest mountains with snow patches and glacier partially visible. But the highlight of the excursion was the basaltic formations and the lovely waterfalls pouring off the coastal edges of the land. Columnar basalts were extremely interesting and forming natural sculptures with swirls and bends. At the very end of the land, the basaltic columns formed wide hexagonal platforms for black-legged kittiwakes to nest. Some of the newly grown chicks were coming and going from their nest sites hoping to get another meal from the remaining dutiful parents. Fortunately, the return to the ship was not as splashy and wet as anticipated as the wind had dropped. The day concluded with a short recaps and a session of answers to questions about Iceland that people had previously submitted. Yet again another wonderful day in Iceland.
