There are some days that can define an entire expedition and our day alongside in Kumai did exactly that. Upon setting out on a tour of the surrounding area it became immediately apparent that we were extremely welcome within this community. Shopkeepers in the waterside market asked to take photos of us in a reversal of what is perhaps a more typical situation. The junior high school put on a dizzying display of costumed dance, replete with ornate feathered headdresses and fiercely colored shields and spears.
Afterwards while we mingled in the yard of the longhouse spinning tops and blowpipes were available to try a hand at. However the most impressive demonstration of all was the local custom of fireball, which is just like soccer except with a coconut husk that has been soaked in kerosene and then lit! As if this weren’t enough to spice up this exhilarating activity, they play barefoot, coating their legs in a powder to prevent getting singed. The sight of a blazing sphere being dribbled around the pitch makes the traditional style seem rather dull by comparison. It should also be mentioned there are no goalies…
Then the moment we’ve all been waiting for, to be granted entry into the orangutan care center for an exclusive look at the several hundred orangutans of varying ages that are being rehabilitated there. Thanks to Dr. Birute Galdikas’ extremely generous hospitality and the relationship that she has with Lindblad Expeditions we are lucky enough to visit a truly unique facility. It is the only orangutan rehabilitation center on this scale in the world and the experience of interacting in such extreme proximity with these gregarious creatures is truly special. The tumbling antics of the juveniles as they cavort around their open air playground of ropes and hanging tires would warm even the coldest of hearts. Long arms covered thinly with red gold hair reach out, continually inquisitive. Dexterous fingers grasp at anything and everything, a physical extension of their curiosity. Deep dark eyes that wander and occasionally lock with your own cast no doubt about the sentience that lies behind them. The babies, easily the highlight for all, even at such small sizes are so much stronger than one would expect, especially as they clamber up or down onto a lucky few, looking to be held. Feeling beyond fortunate to be seeing the comfortable grace of these beautiful animals in this place where they can be looked after until such a point where they can be released, we eventually say our goodbyes.
Headed back to the ship everyone is quiet, still resonating with the experience of a lifetime that will remain in our melted hearts forever.
