Brilliant blue skies and the bright light of dawn’s first rays hitting the water created mirror-like reflections of the 3,000-foot-high mountains ringing the shore of Boka Bay at the eastern end of this 17-mile inlet on the Dalmatian coast. The morning’s activities focused on a visit to the village of Perast, a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its maritime academy and Venetian architecture. We boarded local boats to visit the two “floating” churches of Our Lady of the Rocks and the smaller monastery of St. George. On our return to Perast, we visited the Church of St. Nicholas and its towering Venetian-styled campanile before returning for a short walking tour of the walled town of Kotor.
In the afternoon, most our guests opted for the breathtaking bus ride up the 25 serpentine switchbacks to Njegusi, home of renowned mountain-smoked hams. Other guests swam or returned to Kotor to explore this fortified town in depth.
Lecturing on expedition ships since 1996 has fueled Robyn’s passion for adventure, discovery, travel, art, and archaeology. These diverse interests have carried her through several degrees, including a B.A. in the History of Art from Queen’s Universi...
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For our last full day aboard the Sea Cloud we sailed through some of the hundreds of islands located off the coast of Croatia. We headed for Hvar, an island which has been inhabited for around three thousand years; Indigenous Illyrians, Greek colonists, and the later Roman Empire have all left their mark on the landscape. Eventually Slavic peoples migrated into the area, and later still Italian merchants left a lasting imprint on the local culture, most evident in its architecture and cuisine. Hvar’s elongated topography is typical of this region; it is forty miles long but averages just two miles wide. It is separated from the mainland and neighboring islands by narrow straits. Rugged limestone formations rise from the seabed, capped by clusters of trees and shrubs. While this fragmented landscape presents numerous sheltered harbors, it also provides cover for more nefarious operators — the Dalmatian Coast was plagued by pirates for centuries. After tendering to shore, we took a walking tour of old Hvar. The town is built from locally sourced limestone, its pavements polished smooth by generations of pedestrian traffic. In the 13th century Hvar became part of the Venetian Stato da Mar, having requested their protection. Venetian rule brought with it substantial urban development, including the hilltop fortress, city walls, and the Arsenal. The Franciscan monastery is another institution of this era, providing shelter, provisions, and medical aid for the Venetian galleys that passed through. After returning to the ship, we set course for our destination in Dubrovnik. In the afternoon our cultural specialist Zrinka Sapro talked us through the sometime complicated history of the Balkans, from ancient times to the 20th century. As the day drew to an end, we gathered once more at the lido bar for Farewell Cocktail Hour, the guest slideshow, and the Captain’s Farewell Dinner.
The day began with an opportunity to watch the crew climbing the rigging and setting the sails. This was followed by a fascinating talk by Captain John Svendsen showing the numerous restoration projects that have been undertaken to keep the Sea Cloud in tip-top shape. Interested guests had the chance to go down below for a tour of the Sea Cloud ’s very unique engine room. After lunch certified photo instructor Linda Burback presented “Photography Basics: Composition +” before we headed ashore for a walking tour of Korcula. One highlight of the day was a traditional Moreska sword dance performed in an open outdoor venue. The clashing of the heavy swords choreographed to music was exhilarating. Guests had the choice to stay ashore for dinner. Back on board the Sea Cloud there was an after-dinner showing of the film Around Cape Horn, featuring original footage shot on a square rigger.
The walls on the outside may seem imposing, but the Old Town and people of Dubrovnik are resilient and welcoming. The pride of the Old Town is apparent in the lovingly restored buildings and monuments. The work continues today as we saw workmen on rooftops and statues and buildings surrounded with scaffolding. Our explorations took us through a myriad of narrow alleyways, up polished limestone steps, around the perimeter wall and, finally, to a shady table with a cold beverage. The photos accompanying this paragraph display the diversity of experiences from our day spent in Dubrovnik.
