This morning we enjoyed a wee sleep in and arose at the civilized hour of 7:00 a.m. With the light early morning mist keeping the air cool and moist, Jahan made its approach to Phnom Penh and manoeuvred to the dock. Once again the kitchen staff had prepared us another fantastic breakfast which left us in good stead for the day. After climbing up the ramp to street level we encountered our day’s first novelty – a “cyclo” ride. A traditional mode of transport in French Indochina, the cyclo is essentially an articulated tricycle with the single wheel at the back. The elevated driver peddles at the back and gives the passenger an unobstructed view from the front. As our convoy meandered through the bustling streets we eventually arrived at the Royal Palace.  This beautiful complex of pavilions and gardens is a testament to modern Cambodian architecture and, furthermore, hints at the wealth of the empire in times past. Next we head over to the National Museum where we are treated to the highlights of over 1000 years of Khmer sculpture.

For lunch we dined in style at Topaz, a French-style restaurant in the heart of the city. The afternoon brought with it a distinct change in tone as we learnt about the tragic recent history of Cambodia and its people. Firstly we headed to S-21, the Tuol Sleng prison, which was one of the many torture centres which operated during the Khmer Rouge period. While originally a high school, today it serves as a museum and memorial to the countless people who disappeared during that tumultuous period, and the gardens in the old school’s courtyard offer a suitable place to sit and reflect. Afterwards we headed to the outskirts of town to visit the Cheung Ek memorial site. Again, these killing fields were but one of the hundreds of sites where innocent people met their end during the Pol Pot regime.

After a solemn and contemplative afternoon we returned to Jahan. Fortunately we finished the day on a high note with a live performance of Apsara and folk dancing. The graceful movement and upbeat rhythm offer us a sort of antidote and show that, despite a troubled past, Cambodian culture really is full of joy.