Travelers and poets have often rhapsodized about the Mediterranean’s spectacularly capricious geology in this area, but for those living in the shadow of Mt. Vesuvius in AD 79, the end came swiftly and cruelly. As we followed our guides through the silent, deserted streets (save the 21st century tour groups jostling for position in the Forum), the three dimensionality of the buildings and frescoed scenes painted on the walls of the houses allowed us to connect with the city’s doomed citizens in a way that is not possible at ordinary archaeological sites. All too soon, we had to return to the ship for an Italian buffet, and then it was on to Ravello. The enchanting views of the Amalfi Coast and the late fall gardens from the terrace of a villa were certainly worth the trip through the mountain switchbacks!
10/1/2023
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Sea Cloud
Amalfi, Italy
Today we awoke to a full moon glimmering over the water as we headed toward the port of Amalfi — situated on the south side of the Sorrentine peninsula that separates the Gulf of Naples from the Gulf of Salerno. This stretch of southern Italy is characterized by spectacular limestone cliffs, valleys, and ravines which plunge into the sea. The natural beauty of the Amalfi Coast has made it a popular destination for European travelers since the 18th century. Like much of the Mediterranean coastline, Amalfi has a long history of settlement. There are remains of Roman-era villas in the area, and it was within the Duchy of Naples during the Byzantine period. Eventually, Amalfi became an independent republic ruled by merchant families who controlled the maritime trade routes across the Mediterranean in the 9th and 10th centuries. Amalfi was the early leader in a trade war that would later be dominated by the likes of Pisa and Venice. We went ashore for a walking tour through the old town, which is bordered on either side by sheer cliffs. Many narrow alleyways wind throughout the town beneath multistory buildings. Many staircases emanate from the central valley up toward residences built high above — Amalfi is truly mountain goat territory. We visited Saint Andrew’s Cathedral, a stunning example of Norman-Arab-Byzantine architecture which features a crypt with many colored marbles and beautiful frescoes. After returning to the Sea Cloud we were treated to a hearty meal of Italian cuisine — local seafood and the pasta wheel! We raised anchor and cruised along the coastline to the amazing Isle of Capri. In the evening we enjoyed the farewell cocktail hour, guest slideshow, and capped everything off with the Captain’s Farewell Dinner.
