St. John’s, Newfoundland, 9/19/2019, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Canada
After a couple of days of strong winds and unsettled weather, the clouds parted and we were treated to stunning views of ocean swells battering the rusty red cliffs of the Newfoundland coastline. Seabirds, fin whales, and white-beaked dolphins swam around the ship as we made our final approach into St. John’s.
For as long as he can remember, Conor has always been preoccupied with the natural world, from the whales to the fungi. For most of his life he has been an islander: growing up in Cobh, Ireland and settling down in Tobermory in the Hebrides, Scotland...
We dropped anchor deep into one of the fingers of Bonavista Bay to explore Terra Nova National Park, Canada’s most eastern parks, whose name is derived from the Latin for Newfoundland. The highly popular park abounds with forested hills, bogs, ponds, and wetlands all inhabited by a plethora of small and large mammals, migratory birds, and of course, plants. Remains of the ancient Appalachian Mountains provide a textbook of geological features, and the accessible seashore offers much for intertidal enthusiasts. In overcast and cool weather, we had the usual offerings of hikes: a casual loop emphasizing plant interpretation, an intermediate hike along the shore and forest, and a strenuous hike through the forest and over innumerable roots designed to challenge foot dexterity and agility. We returned to National Geographic Explorer for lunch, then back to the park for independent exploration and to hear a spirited performance by Rum Ragged, an award-winning Canadian folk music group from Newfoundland and Labrador. The quartet’s use of bouzouki, fiddle, bodhran, banjo, guitar, button accordion, combined with striking harmonies and storytelling, created a truly unique auditory and visual experience. The evening (and voyage) concluded with the traditional captain’s dinner and guest slideshow. Future National Geographic photographers, perhaps?
Today we landed at the much-anticipated L’Anse aux Meadows, the only known Viking settlement in North America. We toured the L’Anse aux Meadows UNESCO World Heritage and Canadian National Historic Site where we were able to see the settlement itself, which has been the focus of archeological excavations since the 1980’s. In the fabulous museum, we watched a short documentary and viewed original artifacts such as a bronze cloak pin, spindle whorl, butternut fragments, wooden barrel, and nails. We wandered along a scenic boardwalk as Parks Canada interpreters provided plentiful information on the site. Afterwards, we visited Norstead, an historic recreation of the Viking settlement, which showed us how the day to day lives of the Vikings may have been – including demonstrations by the blacksmith, knitters, and even had our runes read. After a delicious lunch of either a Viking feast or seafood sampler, we made our way to sunny St. Anthony, to admire the rugged coastal views at Fishing Point before returning to the ship. Onboard, we had a BBQ on the sundeck, followed by a fascinating lecture from our on board naturalist on cod. A beautiful day was had by all, as we made our way towards the end of this stunning journey together.
Our day in Red Bay, Labrador began with the morning sun turning the fog a striking cotton candy pink and ended with a sunset casting the flat ocean a rich ochre. Once a 16th-century Basque whaling hub, Red Bay is now a small community that is as welcoming as it is remote. We explored two museums, one showcasing the archeological discoveries of the Basque whaling history, and the other dedicated to the whales whose precious oil once lit European lanterns. On Saddle Island, we saw the remains of whale-processing sites, and walked along the "Boney Shore," still scattered with centuries-old whale bones. A hike up Tracey Hill rewarded us with breathtaking views of Labrador’s rugged landscape. A highlight was a moving performance by the Sandwich Bay Residential School Drummers, a group formed by senior Inuit women who use traditional drums to soothe the trauma caused by Canada’s infamous residential schools. It was a powerful and moving reminder to not forget the errors of the past while simultaneously offering a path to healing and reconciliation.
