This morning, we awoke to light, shifting fog and scattered sea ice. Our destination, Torellneset, lies in the distance, its stark shores striped with snow drifts. A few walruses patrolled the shore for a potential haul out, their efforts thwarted by a still-prominent ice ledge.

Upon arrival, we walked over seabed raised through rebound into gravel terraces and scattered with a few resilient plant beds and a lone whale skeleton. It’s a desolate place, but a startlingly beautiful one.

In the afternoon, we ventured into sea ice in search of polar bears, and it was not long before we found one. We observed at a respectable distance before quietly departing, retreating into soft snow.