Tracy Arm and South Sawyer Glacier, 6/27/2021, National Geographic Quest
Aboard the
National Geographic Quest
Alaska
First thing in the morning, there is fog, which wipes the slate clean in readiness for impressions. The sun’s brightness burns through the fog for our first sight of blue sky and verdant green. We are surrounded by soaring mountains. There is ice on the horizon. Swirling waters at the terminal moraine hint at a change in scenery. Soon we are in the world of a glacial fjord. Vertical walls of rock and rounded crests. A black bear browsing an intertidal smorgasbord. Harbor seals, a mother and pup, in repose. Sounds of the glacier calving, an iceberg is born.
An educator at heart, Dan finds great joy in helping others explore and connect with the world around them. He has taught marine sciences in the Florida Keys and on Catalina Island, science and math in international schools in Mexico, Costa Rica, and...
A fine and adventurous day was awarded to us on our last chance to explore Southeast Alaska on this voyage. We anchored in the morning at Ushk Bay just between Baraknof and Chicagof Islands. We spent the morning exploring the vast beach, meadows, and forests that make this area so special and wild. Salmon were making their final push upstream while the less lucky fishes lay as carcasses along the streams. We have learned and seen so much in our short time in Southeast Alaska and it has never disappointed.
We woke up to today to sculptures of ice floating down the
mirror-still water of a mist filled fjord as we proceeded towards Johns Hopkins
Glacier. The air was crisp and still holding only a slight chill. The dramatic
landscape unfolded in front of us, showcasing countless waterfalls spilling
from the high walls of the fjord and complex structures of ice at the face of
the glacier. Kittiwakes streamed by silently in the morning air as seals gave
us a curious glance. Spending the day in Glacier Bay National Park is always an
anticipated highlight of our voyages. This incredible location has so much to
offer, as our full schedule showed. Shortly after our early morning glacier, we
made way to view our late morning glacier at the northern extent of Glacier Bay.
The cool air and increasing fog just added to the mystique of this very special
place. Throughout the day we switched between viewing wildlife,
listening to presentations, and dining with our friends, new and old, aboard
the National Geographic Quest. A mother and cub brown bear gave us quick looks
as they skirted from the beach into the forest. Mountain goats effortlessly
traversed the impossibly steep walls of Gloomy Knob. Dazzling flocks of
seabirds painted lines around the ship in Russel Cut. Rafts of sea otters
paddled along as the fog lifted from the azure waters. Glacier Bay does not
disappoint. Approaching South Marble Island, a breeding location for many
seabirds and a haul-out spot for Steller sea lions, life was abundant. The sea
lions were present in loud playful groups, and the birds showed themselves in
large quantities and diversity. As we were starting to depart, a pod of killer whales
came towards the island. Four individuals, including a male with a distinct
tall dorsal fin, began to tour the island and the sea lion haul-outs. The
pinnipeds scrambled to get to high ground as the tide took their crowded
refuge. Several naturalists believe that the whales were successful in hunting sea
lions during our prolonged stay at the island. Observing killer whales hunt is
a rare opportunity, so we were all glued to the bow taking in the dramatic
scene unfolding in front of us. As we began to peel away from the island and share the excitement
of what we had just witnessed, puffins flew about and several more brown bears
worked their way along the shore. This was the kind of day that will live on in
story for years after it ends; another amazing day in Alaska.
After several days of liquid sunshine in Southeast Alaska, the sun came out to illuminate the Inian Islands and all of the wildlife that utilizes this amazing corridor of Alaska. Everyone took a Zodiac ride in the morning to see Steller sea lions, sea otters, and a myriad of birds. The current ripped through the islands, bringing the fish buffet up to the hungry sea lions. The ecosystem in this area is returning homeostasis compliments of the burgeoning sea otter population after their near extinction during the Russian America days. Everyone enjoyed close up views of sea otters! After lunch, the expedition continued to George Island where there were a variety of hikes through the forest and kayaking from the beach. The afternoon ended with some hot cider and an opportunity to take a “Polar Plunge” in the Southeast Alaskan waters.
