Adriatic Sea and Piran, Slovenia, 8/19/2023, Sea Cloud
Aboard the
Sea Cloud
Mediterranean
What a start to our journey on the Sea Cloud. After leaving Venice with a glorious sunset, we awoke to a beautiful day in the Adriatic Sea. The magnificence and splendor of our ship were on full display as the sails were unfurled by the crew clambering up the tall masts. To really appreciate the beauty, we boarded Zodiacs for a spin around the Sea Cloud.
As we sailed onward, photo instructor Sue Forbes gave a presentation on smartphone photography, and we all had time to practice the new skills learned. After lunch we had some shopping opportunities from the Sea Cloud boutique, followed by more educational talks from our experts. Expedition leader Paula Tagle covered the geology of the region, and historian Rebecca Ingram gave a presentation on the Venetian Maritime Empire.
When it was time to bring the sails down, everyone had an opportunity to help the crew; we pulled the ropes to lower the sails and prepared them to be furled.
As we sailed into Piran in Slovenia, the Captain officially welcomed us; then we met all the senior crew members at the Captain’s Cocktail Hour.
Sue has been creating wildlife, landscape, and travel photos for over 30 years, traveling to over 90 countries on all seven continents. She has combined this passion with an unusual career that includes being an Engineer Officer with the Royal Air Fo...
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The final day of our voyage was spent exploring the picturesque island of Hvar. We began with an early morning journey by coach to Stari Grad Plain, passing steep cliffs and lush forests along the way. At Stari Grad, rustic stone walls mark ancient divisions of land devised by Greek colonists in the 4th century BC. We arrived at Hora Estate, a small farm that produces lavender, wine, and other organic products. A few photogenic donkeys greeted us at the entrance, and some of us took the opportunity to photograph the local “wildlife.” We learned about the island’s ancient farming traditions, as well as Hvar’s rich history of lavender cultivation. We enjoyed a delicious meal of fresh, organic foods produced by the Hora Estate, and then we journeyed back to the main town of Hvar. In Hvar, we explored the different neighborhoods used by the ruling Venetian nobles and the commoners, taking note of the many winged lions — the symbol of the Venetian maritime empire. We also toured the splendid Arsenal of Hvar. First built in the 14th century for the repair of ships, the Arsenal was expanded over time; it was reconstructed in the early 1600s after an attack by Ottomans. By the mid-1600s the upper story of the Arsenal was used as a public theater, making this the oldest public theater in Europe. Heading back to the ship, we enjoyed one last afternoon aboard with a decadent, creamy iced coffee at tea time. During cocktail hour on the lido deck, many guests shared stories of this one-of-a-kind journey; together we enjoyed the guest slide show, prepared by photographer Sue Forbes. We hope to meet again with our Sea Cloud family and fellow shipmates on a future Lindblad expedition.
After a refreshing sail along the Vis archipelago, Sea Cloud anchored in front of the town of Komiža last night. As the morning began, our early risers were greeted with a picturesque view of this small town on the island of Vis, the farthest populated island off the Croatian mainland. Vis was inhabited during the Neolithic period, and in the 4th century BC was a Greek colony; here we find the oldest city in Croatia (also named Vis). In terms of geology, this is the most attractive area of the Adriatic, made from the oldest and the youngest formations of rock. Our morning program was divided into two groups. The first started with a walking tour in the town of Komiža where we observed gajeta falkuša —Komiža's traditional historical fishing boat —protected as a national object of intangible cultural heritage. We continued through the small streets of Komiža to Saint Mary’s Church (or Our Lady of the Pirates); this beautiful 16th century gothic church is home to one of the oldest church organs in Croatia, from the 17th century. Afterwards, we visited Geopark Vis Archipelago visitor center where we learned about the geology in this area and the types of rocks found here, particularly volcanic rock. Such rocks are unique in the Adriatic region, and are easily distinguished from the predominantly sedimentary rocks of other Adriatic islands. While we were exploring Komiža, the second group of Sea Cloud guests took coaches to learn about the island’s more recent history. During World War II, the island was the headquarters of the Yugoslav Partisan movement; after the war, Vis served as a naval base for the Yugoslav Army. During this period Tito built secret tunnels and caves throughout the island to shelter from enemies. After a scenic drive we visited the family restaurant Roki, where they maintain a 200-year-long winemaking tradition. We tasted four different local wines and various local dishes. We especially enjoyed the traditional meal Peka — meat with potatoes and vegetables, slowly cooked under the iron bell, heated by coal and fire for two hours. After this exquisite meal and busy morning, we headed back to Komiža where some of us enjoyed the local beaches and the sea, while other guests decided to explore the city. Captain Komakin surprised our guests with swimming time from the ship, so we all cooled down in the perfectly blue Adriatic Sea.
After spending the night aboard Sea Cloud docked at Split, we ventured out early today to explore the spectacular region of Diocletian’s retirement. We began with a journey by coach to nearby Salona, once the capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia. We passed through neighborhoods of traditional Dalmatian limestone houses interspersed with industrial quarters, communist-era apartments, and Roman ruins. We soon came to the remains of the ancient capital. While the scattered ruins of Salona are fragmentary, the site is lovely and tranquil; there are traces of early churches, Roman baths, and an amphitheater nestled among fragrant cypress and pine trees. We returned to Split, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and busy modern city, to further explore the region’s complex history. Diocletian, a Roman emperor of Illyrian heritage and military background, established his magnificent retirement villa at Split in the early 4 th century. As the founder of the Roman Tetrarchy, Diocletian helped restore the Roman Empire after the chaotic Crisis of the Third Century. Somewhat resembling a Roman fort, the retirement villa featured intricate mosaics, colorful marble, and exotic sculptures imported from throughout the vast Roman world. Although Diocletian was known for his persecution of early Christians, his splendid mausoleum was converted to a Christian cathedral in the 7 th century by Roman refugees fleeing invaders in the western Balkans. As a result, the interior of the mausoleum is now an eclectic blend of pagan Roman imagery and Christian symbolism. As we concluded our visit, we enjoyed a brief yet entertaining visit from the Emperor Diocletian and his troops — portrayed by local residents with elaborate costumes in the main square. We then passed through the maze of small streets and alleys lined with modern shops and restaurants, a reminder that this remains a thriving and active city today. Back aboard Sea Cloud , we enjoyed a leisurely afternoon. We had lectures on the clash of empires in the post-medieval Balkans and on the colorful history of the Sea Cloud, followed by a tour of the original owners’ cabins. We thus ended another day aboard this beautiful ship, exploring this fascinating region.
