Our trip began windy but ended with incredibly calm waters today in Bahia Almejas, allowing us to experience a variety of flavors of Baja weather. With panga engines off or idling, we could hear exhalations of gray whales surrounding us. The whales were so numerous that we could hardly keep up with what direction to look. Later, as a high and harsh afternoon sun lowered to golden hues, we paddled the coast and walked the desert and shore of Isla Santa Margarita.