Cabo Pulmo and the Cape Region, 1/25/2022, National Geographic Venture
National Geographic Venture
The waters around Baja California’s southern tip are very special; the area is just south of the Tropic of Cancer. The air is usually crisp and clean, and this morning was no exception. Conditions were so clear that some early-risers had the chance to witness the elusive and, to many, mythical green flash. As the atmosphere refracted the first rays of the rising sun, guests gasped when they spotted the pure green blip of color. Shortly after sunrise, National Geographic Venture anchored south of Los Frailes. We were located just outside of our morning destination, the beautiful Cabo Pulmo National Park. Cabo Pulmo gained international recognition a few years ago, when researchers monitoring the recovery of fish populations published their findings. The research showed a 463% rebound of fish biomass, the largest rebound of any marine reserve in the world!
We explored the waters of the park by snorkeling or boat ride. James Hyde and I went scuba diving with a certified local dive master to film marine life at deeper parts of the sea. We saw a great abundance of fish species, and some of them formed immense schools. We went diving under a school of bigeye jacks so dense that they completely blocked the sunlight! We brought back underwater video of large schools of yellow snappers, graybar grunts, finescale triggerfishes and more. Large leopard groupers patrolled the schools, including some golden ones. My personal highlight was a single huge goliath grouper living inside a shipwreck! This fish was as long as I am and is the third I have ever seen. Goliath groupers were overfished throughout their range. They recovered in areas like the Florida Keys but remain very scarce in most places. It is essential to protect marine areas like Cabo Pulmo; seeing that big guy today was an encouraging reminder of this.
We dedicated the rest of the day to looking for marine wildlife while we headed toward Land’s End. We watched numerous humpback whales, including several groups of surface-active males chasing each other to gain the favors of a female. Other whales slapped their tails or pectoral fins high in the air, delighting everyone with spectacular breaches. This area is one of the main breeding grounds of humpback whales in the North Pacific, and today we had the pleasure of corroborating this. Eventually, we rounded the southernmost point of the peninsula and entered the open Pacific for more adventures to come. As I write this at night, National Geographic Venture is heading towards Magdalena Bay, where we will continue our great expedition to explore the beauty of Mexico’s Baja California.
Carlos J. Navarro is a biochemist specializing in marine biology, a M. Sc. in Environmental Management and a freelance wildlife photographer/author. Carlos has spent most of the last 30 years living along the shores of the Sea of Cortez and participa...
Beautiful Almejas Bay was the stage for our whale watching performance today. We moved on fiberglass outboard boats called pangas with local pilots. As we reached the mating area, some 60 whales were seen doing amazing things, like spyhopping, breaching, rolling, fluking, and more. We stayed with the whales the whole morning, and, of course, guests and staff took thousands of photos of these gentle giants. We finished this phenomenal day with relaxing walks on the dunes of Magdalena Island in a location known as Sand Dollar Beach.
The day began with a lovely stretch class led by our wellness specialist as the sun rose over Bahia Magdalena. National Geographic Venture made its way into Puerto San Carlos, and we watched pelicans swoop and dive near the shore. After a hearty breakfast, we loaded into buses and made our way to Puerto Adolfo Lopez Mateos. The plaza at the docks is always a festive, colorful place, and we were greeted by Mexican music and traditional dancers. One couldn’t help but dance. Excited, we loaded into the pangas of local, certified whale watching guides and set out toward the mouth of Boca de Soledad. On our way, we slowly passed by the mangroves that play such an important role in the immense amount of life found within Bahia Magdalena. Magnificent frigatebirds roosted in the upper branches while double-crested cormorants were seen diving and fishing in the shadows of the trees. We headed out farther into the bay and began to see blows. Several adult gray whales and a few cow/calf pairs dove and logged and blew and swam in the vicinity of our pangas for the rest of the morning…some off in the distance and some close enough to cover our glasses with spray. It was such a special experience to be in this part of the bay where so many pregnant whales come to give birth. All that whale watching caused us to work up an appetite. We went to a restaurant for a delicious, authentic Mexican meal while Los Coyotes, a musical group, serenaded us with traditional tunes. Full and happy, we returned to the plaza to ready ourselves for our afternoon whale watching tours. It’s amazing how much difference just a few hours can make while observing nature. On this trip, we saw less whales, but those we saw came much closer to the boats. The trip ended perfectly with around ten bottlenose dolphins playing across the bow. We returned to National Geographic Venture with great stories and great recaps from our staff to remind us of all the beauty we witnessed that day.
Last night, we rounded the cape that forms the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula and began making our way north through the open waters of the Pacific towards Magdalena Bay. The norteño winds were blowing, and the sea conditions were quite different from the flat, glassy waters we experienced earlier in the week. After breakfast, as National Geographic Venture advanced over the swells, a masked booby flew alongside us for several minutes, affording us excellent views of this beautiful seabird. Over a third of our guests this week are part of a group organized by The Nature Conservancy (TNC), and this morning we enjoyed talks from two TNC guest presenters. Tom Dempsey’s talk, “Building Ocean Conservation Solutions for Scale,” focused on actions his team is taking to reduce two different types of adverse human impacts on whales – entanglements in fishing gear and ship strikes. TNC has partnered with fishing communities along the California Coast to create a robust recovery system for lost crab fishing gear, the loose vertical lines of which are one of the more common entanglement threats to whales. Containerships striking whales are often an invisible cause of whale mortality, and Tom also described his team’s vision to bring a “whale safe shipping” certification to the international container shipping industry. Having such a standard would recognize compliance with ship routes and speed restrictions and would allow merchandisers to apply market pressure to reward good behavior. Soon after Tom finished fielding questions from guests, the expedition leader made an exciting announcement over the ship’s public address system: a killer whale had been sighted near the ship! National Geographic Venture slowed down and turned around to allow guests to come out to the bow to enjoy this sighting. The very tall, angular dorsal fin was indicative of an adult male killer whale, and it stayed near us for some time. Our position at the time was just offshore of the southern tip of Isla Margarita, near the Rehusa Channel, which forms the southernmost entrance to Magdalena Bay. Although gray whale calves and their highly protective mothers are inside the shallow waters of the bay, killer whales very rarely enter Baja California’s gray whale lagoons. Although we don’t fully understand why, our naturalists shared theories of why this might be. Once we got underway again, TNC’s Frank Hurd shared a great talk titled, “Sustainability through Partnership – Working with Fishing Communities to Ensure a Better Future for Marine Ecosystems & Everyone that Depends on Them.” Frank has worked closely with local fishing communities here in Baja California Sur and has helped them use scientific tools to create size limit restrictions that can protect their marine resources and future livelihoods. As we witnessed yesterday in Cabo Pulmo, the key elements to efforts like this being successful are initiation and ownership of regulations from within the community. TNC and its partners are working in many other geographies around the world to scale this community-driven, relationship-based approach to marine conservation. Over lunch in the dining room, we breathed a sigh of relief as National Geographic Venture passed through La Entrada, the principal opening of Magdalena Bay to the Pacific. The seas calmed as we entered protected waters and saw our first gray whales of the trip. We enjoyed a presentation from naturalist Rich Kirchner on the “Birds of Baja” before anchoring just offshore of one of the narrowest parts of Isla Magdalena. Excited to stretch our legs and explore this new environment, we loaded Zodiacs to shuttle guests to the beach. In front of us, a sweeping expanse of barchan dunes formed an isthmus connecting Isla Magdalena’s rugged mountains of metamorphic rock to our south and north. These rocks are exotic terranes, accreted onto the edge of the continental plate millions of years ago. Ocean currents then deposited huge quantities of sand in this area, and these rocky outcrops were connected by dunes to form the barrier islands that separate Magdalena Bay from the open Pacific. We broke into smaller, naturalist-led groups to explore this spectacular landscape of shifting sands. We saw shell middens left behind by inhabitants of this area thousands of years ago, fine grains of powdery sand blowing and cascading over the crescent-shaped dunes, succulents that are slowly managing to stabilize their dynamic environment, tracks of kangaroo rats, lizards, foxes, and coyotes, interesting plants such as satiny locoweed and Magdalena twinevine, and a loggerhead shrike perched atop an island of desert thorn. We crested the dunes and took in the sweeping views of Sand Dollar Beach and the waves of the open Pacific with all our senses. Now it was time to beachcomb! In addition to hundreds of sand dollar skeletons – and a few sand dollars that were still alive – we found an abundance of sea turtle ribs, crabs, bird skeletons, and shells left behind by mollusks such as cockles, scallops, and pen oysters…and much, much more. Exhilarated by the beauty of this special place and the joy of exploration, we eventually walked back across the dunes towards National Geographic Venture , glowing in the soft light of the late afternoon sun. After cocktail hour and evening recap, the hotel team treated us to a Mexican fiesta in the dining room. We enjoyed ceviche, guacamole, tamales, and enchiladas mineras. We somehow managed to save a little space for delicious tres leches cake, and then we returned to the forward lounge one last time for a presentation by naturalist Megan Wehrenberg on mangrove ecosystems. Today was yet another full day, and we are excited for the opportunity to spend time searching for gray whales tomorrow!